1949 Cadillac Roadster Build

[M.Kirby]

I'm so excited to see the end product!

[MP&C]

Nice save! Seems we always need a plan B.... Not that it HAS to be used, but just in case...

[Jack 1957]

This is why I really wanted to eliminate the vent windows.When I did my 57 Chevy, I only chopped this car 1 1/2". It looks like more but that's all I cut out. Removing the vent made the side glass longer which gives the appearance of the roof being lower without looking like it was stepped on.
This roof was a swap from a 59 Chevy 2 door sedan. The rake on the rear window also adds to the illusion. But, unfortunately, it's not in the cards for the Cadillac. I can black out the vertical run channel and the vent window frame to minimize them but I have to use vent windows on this one.





Moving on. Here are the cuts I made to narrow and lower the vents. Older cars (pre 1969) had various shaped vent windows, triangles, rectangles, and variations of trapeziums such as this one. If you place your cuts carefully, it will save you a lot of work later.

One important consideration is to avoid relocating the pivot points if possible. In this case the pivot points are where the (red arrows) are.

First I cut off the main frame horizontal bar and lower perch to narrow the frame. (Green arrows) Then I cut the weather seal. I cut the seal just below the lower pivot point so the seam would be less visible. (Blue arrows)
Next I cut the window frame also right below the lower pivot point (Pink arrow), removed a section and welded it back together. I cut below the pivot point so I wouldn't have to relocate the pivot pin and potentially screw up the geometry. After that I assembled everything and trimmed off the ends of the window frame for a good fit.





Back together and operates properly.










The gap below the window frame will not be seen since it is below the belt line. I'll still make a filler panel out of stainless sheet for it so the lower window seal has a place to sit.





I made some templates for the windows out of some scrap plexiglass. Be very accurate when making templates for windows. If you're wrong, you still have to pay your glass guy for your mistake.
The original windows were .225" thick. The gasket material on the left is .030" thick. As is, the glass and gasket fit snugly in the frames but I think new modern glass is closer to .200" thick meaning I may have to get thicker gasket material. We'll cross that bridge when we come to it.






Everything fits and functions well.





Good fit on the left side also.

[Jack 1957]

I finished the vent windows and got sidetracked while I was working on the doors. I wanted to see what I was in for trying to adapt the CTS door interior trim panels. The shape of the 49 is basically a rectangle and the CTS panels are wedge shaped. The rear of the CTS door is angled and the 49 is vertical.

What I'm trying to do is cut away the perimeter of the trim panel, modify it to fit the 49 door, then place the center section unaltered into the perimeter and fill the gaps
Below is a picture of the left side trim panel fully assembled still. You can see the wedge shape and angle of the rear edge. Also notice that all the design features intersect with each other. The grab bar, the upper and lower appliques, the lower applique merges into the speaker grill, etc.. It would be futile to try to relocate any of this. everything was designed to work together. Changing that would make an uncoordinated mess.
This is one of the many potential obstacles that have been rattling around in my head since I started this project, so I wanted to see if it could be done cleanly.
At this time I'm only going to do the right side so I know whether it can be done. I shouldn't even be spending time with this right now. I need to finish the bodywork and get paint on this thing before the weather turns to crap.





First I disassembled the trim panel. Everything off. Then I stripped the vinyl off the main panel and started removing and reshaping the flange along the perimeter one edge at a time. I had to establish location for each guide pin and fastener, and allow room for the weather seal along the door jamb. It takes time.






The top bar had to be shortened in front and back. I was able to peel the upholstery back, trim the plastic, then lay the original upholstery back down. It isn't glued yet but it fits.





You can see that most of the perimeter is snapped in place. The front section isn't finished yet. That triangle indentation at the top of the front piece is to mate with the side of the dashboard. It needs to be moved up about 4 inches.

[Gojeep]

I'm wrestling with the same thing but nearly all my door trims from the donor are plastic and too small. Also the drivers side was smashed in the accident and even a second-hand one will cost me $500!

[MP&C]

Jigsaw puzzle!! Looking good Jack!

[Jack 1957]

I got the perimeter of the trim panel to fit. I added sheet aluminum to fill the gaps. (Arrows) When I'm finished, these areas with the aluminum will also be filled with ABS to match the rest of the panel.






Almost done. The speaker grill had to be moved back about an inch. You can see the angle of the aluminum plate along the bottom that makes up for the angular shape of the CTS door.






The relief area at the top front of the panel is to clear the dash board. What was left of it after I mauled the thing isn't worth trying to save. I'll make a new piece and cover it with ABS.





I started making this piece by putting in a bend that matches the contour of the dash with a tipping wheel in the bead roller. Since the bend is curved it will draw the flat area up and out of shape. I did some heavy shrinking on the flange side until the other side came back to flat. I still need to trim and fit the edges to the fit the door. Tomorrow's another day.

[Jack 1957]

I am STILL messing with this trim panel. I thought I'd be on it a couple days, but it's been a week. Anyway I'm closing in on it.

I'm almost finished with the aluminum backing plates. These are riveted in from the back side and the ABS sheet will be riveted to the aluminum and glued along the edges to the trim panel.

I also test fit the grab handle, upholstered insert, and moldings to be sure they all fit before going any further.






The ABS is all glued on. Basically the same process as when I made the splash shields for the front fenders. It still looks like Frankenstein, but it's correct. It should look good when it's finished.
The adhesive should be dry by tomorrow, so I can start smoothing it all out with 80# on a DA. I'll leave it rough so the contact adhesive for the vinyl will have a strong bite.
I think I underestimated this job. It's burning up too much time. I'll finish this right side panel and leave the left till after I get paint on the car. My priority is to paint before the weather gets bad.

[dwmh]

Getting closer Jack, a real credit to you.

[Jack 1957]

Ready for upholstery. I was beginning to understand how General Custer must have felt, but in the end determination prevails.