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  #11  
Old 03-02-2016, 12:18 PM
bimmer1980 bimmer1980 is offline
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Wow, you have been busy! Thanks for posting this link in your truck project thread.
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  #12  
Old 03-02-2016, 09:47 PM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Top job as usual Marcus.
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  #13  
Old 03-03-2016, 04:40 AM
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Thanks Brad and John.
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  #14  
Old 03-05-2016, 07:02 AM
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Had a closer look at the section left on the first side and wasn't happy about it.


Only had a few pin holes but cut it all out and will replace the whole section of rail so no old parts left on this side. Floor sections that have pitting under the rail will get replaced as well. Just makes me feel better knowing it will be more sound that way.


Replaced sections that had some pitting.


The reinforcement channel for the shackle mount was thicker than the front spring mount, so I made sure I matched the guage. Probably because there is only two rivets holding it instead of four for the front mount spread over a larger area.


I clean a small area where the plug welds are to get the best penetration.


Started using this right angle grinder I picked up in England for a souvenir to knock down the welds to almost flush. Believe it or not but the discs I use on it were once 9" cut off wheels! Once they wear down to 5" I use them in my smaller 5" grinder until 3" in size, then on this. Fortunately I had saved all these small ones over the years to use one day.


So one whole frame rail completely replaced and half of the other. The remaining original rail is in good condition. Notice the rust holes in the floor though.


I was going to leave the floor for whoever bought it to replace as didn't know if it was going to a restorer or someone who wanted a cool looking camper trailer. Well it just got sold and they want me to replace the floor for them.


I cut it out along with the floor braces even though they were still in very good condition. They didn't however fit the new floor profile planned as they were pressed to support the ribs.


My old Jeep gets pressed into service to pickup a brand new checker plate floor guillotined to my specifications.


Even though brand new, any loose scale needs to be removed for the paint to stick well. It killed my wire wheel though and I looked like a echidna with steel spikes implanted into my overalls everywhere!


Out comes the bigger one and nearly finished doing both sides.


Underside gets a coat of zinc so areas over the floor braces etc get protected.
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
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  #15  
Old 03-12-2016, 05:38 AM
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The bottom of the front wall needs to be replaced.


I cut the rusty bottom out and replaced it with some steel tubing I had. It will be stronger than the channel that was there before.


Cut out and then folded up some replacement floor supports.


I noticed it was a little out of square so pulled it into alignment with a 4 ton ratchet strap. You have to go a bit over square to account for the spring back when the pressure is off.


The sides bowed out some so left the clamp in place while I measured and then fitted the supports. I am welding them directly to the old ends so its keeps the factory setup. The longer front ones are because the inner reinforcement pieces were left full length so as not to weaken them.


All new supports welded in.


Everything zinc coated before the floor goes in.


Floor fitted perfectly first go! Now to weld it in which will be only done from the underside. Some 250 plug welds!


I tacked in the floor from underneath in a few places before flipping it over some steel trestles. I drilled through the plug holes I had prepared to clean the coating off ready for welding. Then vacuumed all the swarf up so none was left between the supports and the floor.


I moved the trestles around under where I was welding so I could press down on the support pushing the floor hard against them. Started in the centre and worked my way outwards from there. Never work from the edge to the middle as can end up with excess metal and a bow. Just got the very front joint to fully weld now to finish off the floor.
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  #16  
Old 04-09-2016, 07:26 AM
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Back to it again after being away.


The two original drain plugs have been refitted and chains for the plugs as well so they cannot be lost.


I sprayed the joint between the floor and the sides even though the underside of the floor and what it sits on had already been done. I then ran sealant all the way around to keep water from getting in.


Zinc coated it all so it wont rust until it gets its top coat. Maybe some bed liner? I like the Upol Raptor liner myself and thinking of buying a kit to do the underside of the Willys.


There was a damage section of the rail so cut it out. Made a repair piece from some tubing and shaped it to suit on a T dolly.


Welded in.


Finished off. The two front corners next. Also notice I cleaned up the joint at the bottom of the front panel where the angle iron is welded on. Most of the area behind it was replace when I repaired it from the inside but the little section near the top I sprayed Ranex rust converter into the joint and let it soak. It is just phosphoric acid. Used this on the joints between the mud guard and the sides too and other places.

I looked to see if I had any bent tubing to suit the corners and took this from the front of my wheel burrow! Otherwise I would have made a wooden form and hammered some metal over that.


Cut two sections from it and cut part the the inner curve out. Then started to flattened the top to suit.


Tightened the radius in my shrinker but still need it a bit tighter in the middle. So a wedge cut and then pulled tighter before welding it up again fixed that.


Fitting the repair piece in place.


Both sides done. I also finished off the bottom joint by spraying it with etch primer as cannot not coat it with the zinc coating. Ran sealant over the joint after that to stop water getting in.


The inspector came to make sure it was up to standard!


The panel had rusted out behind this solid brass tag because water got trapped behind it. They were just brazed on in the corners. So I carefully cut out the rusted metal behind it leaving the brazed corners intact where fortunately there was no rust. Welded in a new piece and ran sealant around it so it doesn't happen again. Ran the wire wheel over it and looks pretty cool like this. A darker background would make it stand out even more.
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Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
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  #17  
Old 04-11-2016, 06:20 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Wont bore you any more with the posts as these are the last ones.


I was given 5 wheels to go with the trailer but all had some rust.


I took the two best ones and put them in the citric acid bath for a week to clean them up. Some rust pitting but still serviceable. They are a bit different to Willys wheels as don't have the slots.


Zinc coated them all and then hit them with some stain black.


Body work repairs all done so re-assembly starts.


BIG full floating hubs with much bigger bearings than your standard trailer on these.


A frame bolted straight back in without alignment problems.


Got to remember that the left side wheels studs are left hand thread. I painted a L on the studs to help the new owner. Always look for the notch on corner of each face on the nuts. Just like some gas bottle fittings.


All complete once again.


They run a very heavy pintle hook and drop down stand. The hook is spring loaded to stop the shock being transferred.


That is the end of my part in this trailer re-birth. Off interstate to the new owners.
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aka. Gojeep
Victoria, Australia
http://willyshotrod.com

Invention is a combination of brains and materials.
The more brains you use, the less materials you need.
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  #18  
Old 04-11-2016, 03:14 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Nice job Marcus!
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  #19  
Old 05-26-2016, 08:56 AM
Bare Metal Bare Metal is offline
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Very neat work Marcus.

That citric acid does the trick.
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  #20  
Old 05-27-2016, 12:07 AM
roversam roversam is offline
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Nice work, LOOKING GREAT. could you please send that Santana state side please!!!!
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