#11
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Where is there anything on the motor plate to suggest "split phase"?
Surely just find the field winding wires within the motor, extend from motor to a suitable drum switch, so that they can be reversed or not. That will give you both directions. I sorted my Meddings pillar drill that way. Unless I am missing something here, everyone is over complicating the issue?
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Richard "Everything is in the system, if it aint working, the system aint right" |
#12
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Does the motor have a capacitor attached?
If it does, then unlikely to be split phase?
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Richard "Everything is in the system, if it aint working, the system aint right" |
#13
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Quote:
The motor connection plate shown in post number 2 is very typical layout for a split phase motor here in the United States. Split phase motors use either resistive start windings (smaller gauge wire), a resistor in line with the start windings or a capacitor in circuit to cause a phase shift that initiates motor rotation. The rotation direction is determined by the connection of the start and run windings. When the motor reaches about 75% of speed; a centrifugal switch cuts out the start windings. This is necessary as the start circuit components are not designed for continuous service. A split phase motor has a very low starting torque. The motor is used mostly because it is an economic solution. Leads T1 Blue and T4 Yellow are standard lead numbers for running windings on electric motors. The two posts with hex nuts most likely are the start winding. Start windings are normaly Labeled T5 and T8. The start windings need to be transposed (swapped) at their connection with the running windings to reverse the starting direction. Both start and running windings are a part of the field in a split phase motor. So I don't understand your reference to "field winding". My hesitation in recommending a hookup scheme is based on not knowing how the starting circuit is wired to the push on connections at the motor connection plate. If wired wrong, even a momentary application of power could fry the start circuit. You will notice that one push on tab is connected to the adjacent binding post; the other tab is in separated location. If the motor was on my bench I would take off the end bell and see where the start circuit connections are. Then I could easily determine how to extend connection to the reverse drum switch.
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Richard K Last edited by Richard K; 02-08-2017 at 10:40 AM. |
#14
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Ed,
Later today I'll make up a diagram that may help you sort this out.
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Richard K |
#15
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Quote:
No Capacitor
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Ed "To Be or To Do" John Boyd |
#16
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Thanks that would be great.
Ive been upgrading my education re the electrics within my workshop, a few years too late probably. During my research it appears that the US, in a few areas, still use a 2 phase supply, each phase 90 degrees apart. Recently I was offered a couple of 2 phase motors, cheap, but didnt know enough about the theory to know if I could use them. "Split phase" appears to be a US system that takes a conventional single phase supply and with the system you describe, produces the necessary torque to start the motor spinning. Similar to the start set up on my rotary converter that then cuts out once spinning and the run capacitors take over? Yes the diagram would be good, bit by bit getting there!
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Richard "Everything is in the system, if it aint working, the system aint right" |
#17
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No external capacitor. However there may be a small capacitor inside the end bell.
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Richard K |
#18
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I would need to see the back side if the connection plate or inside the end bell to sort it out for sure.
Sorry. There is nothing I can find regarding that motor on the net.
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Richard K |
#19
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Richard (s)
Got it working..reversing.
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Ed "To Be or To Do" John Boyd |
#20
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Good for you!!
No Smoke? Congrats
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Richard K |
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