#11
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Really impressive work, Marcus.
I'm very appreciative that you've taken so much time and effort to post so much information for the rest of us. Thank you very much.
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AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
#12
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Comments much appreciated, thank you.
Been worried about putting a joggle in might hold water should any get trapped around the seal that will sit in it. Maybe just better off tipping the edge all the way around and have the insert panel sit on top. Can't collect water that way. Would 1/2" be enough or go 5/8"? Don't want to make the existing hole too much bigger if that was a size he had chosen either. The panel shop was going the weld in a piece of 90* bent angle that he had already started to shape up in a shrinker stretcher and butt weld it all the way around. I think it would be just simpler to take some rod and cut a slot in it the depth I want to tip to start it off. Then use some flanging pliers and hammer and dolly to finish it off. Should be a lot quicker and a neater result.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#13
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Marcus! Its a Rat Rod, you don't clean or grind welds down.
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John EK Holden V8 |
#14
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Had one these utes many years back, looking for one for rat rod, missed good looking one few weeks back, today is another day
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Dave If it dosent work use a bigger hammer |
#15
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There is hope it will be properly painted now it has seen some love.
Quote:
https://www.facebook.com/groups/912295672146456/
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#16
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Many thanks for the support.
Another little update from yesterdays work. Hockey sticks! Like the rear wall, had to attach parts of the curved sections of the inner window frame left from not cutting the rear wall through the vertical section. Joins in the middle of a curve are always harder to dress later than if done in the middle of the vertical part. Cut our where the old seat belt mount was so I could get to the rest of the joins around the B pillar. The outer panel covers the rear face, and it is too hard to weld around the corner of the other seam. I also used a flat blade screw driver and hammered out the edge of the hole left that had caved in from the seat belt bolt passing through from the outside. Once flat again I could tack in a patch to be fully welded in. Still able to hammer out any distortion through the B pillar from the other side. Hole now gone. I was now able to align the pillar and weld across the back of it and side. Also added weld to both sides to better join the lip left from the face of the pillar as the seat belt mount plate will attach there. Regulations call for a minimum of a 50x75x3mm, ( 2"x3"x1/8") plate for the seat belt mounting bolts. I have gone taller and slightly thicker in this case. A 7/16" UNF nut is mounted behind the plate, the same used on all belt mounting points. Sometimes you have to be a bit creative to align things before tacking! So both upper seat belt mounts done and the inner window frame extended and welded into place.
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Marcus aka. Gojeep Victoria, Australia http://willyshotrod.com Invention is a combination of brains and materials. The more brains you use, the less materials you need. |
#17
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Marcus you are making quick work of this project!!!
Guess all the work on your truck was good practice. Sure looks better now! Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
#18
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Marcus,
I've been thinking about your insert question and I don't see much diff. between joggling the roof vs joggling the insert, as far as strength and leakage are concerned. So, I would make up a temp. insert to fit the roof crown and joggle the edge of it to leave a 3/4" wide flange all around for the rivet path, and then put it in with flush set closed end pop rivets (no leaks) and aquarium goo until he is ready for the fancy embossed copper insert. You can then true up the roof after the temp. installation and leave it alone until the day/month/year it gets replaced - and then drill out the rivets and pull off the goo (pulls off easily), then install the copper insert with the same type rivets and urethane glass setting adhesive, and get zero leaks and good strength for years. At least this would be my approach ...
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#19
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Awesome work your doing to fix your friends car looks so much better then what was there .
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Peter |
#20
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You are fantastic , i learn something new all the time i read your threads, thank you for sharing and show how you do, i will have much help when i start my sheet metal work on my little project
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Leif |
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