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Old 12-18-2017, 11:38 AM
wadavie wadavie is offline
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Default Rusted front jacking point - how to repair?

Hi All,

I have a 1982 rust bucket of a 944 and I am in the progress of fixing it. I have a facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/wayneporsche944log/ if you are interested but you don't need to look at this to help on this query.

I am currently doing the front drivers wing/fender area. I am now looking at the hole in the floor which is around the jacking point.

Below is a link to two images, one showing the issue (call this image1), and the second after most of the problem parts are removed (call this image 2).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DlHLxQa5EBxJlH7w1

Image 1 - Yellow part is the jacking point, red part is the inside wall of the interior, black part is the wall of the inner wing/fender, green part is the door pillar area where the wing/fender bolts to when it is on the car.

Image 2 - the clean bit of sheet metal is a patch that was added years ago from the inside of the car. black part is still to be removed from the car (other parts with rust is just surface rust which will be cleaned), blue part is where I intend to put a patch which will curve around the interior wall and the floor to attach them together, red part is a patch to attach the wall of the inner wing to the floor and will cover part of the floor hole, yellow part is to cover the other part of the floor hole. I know the red and yellow parts could be one part but this would mean more metal shaping which I am not good at. The purple/pink part is where the jacking point should go.

I need to get opinions on how to do the jacking point.

I was planning on using flat bar, which is 3mm thick and 2cm in width, then shaping it into a circle. Then get sheet metal which will be wider than the flat bar. The sheet metal will be wrapped around the flat bar. The sheet metal will extend beyond the flat bar and will be bent inwards to create a lip.
The other end of the sheet metal will be bent outwards (away from the flat bar) to create a flat surface to then weld to the car. I will put the centre point of my new jacking point at the interior wall so that would be taking the weight.

Any opinions welcome.

I hope this makes sense as it even seems a bit jumbled up to me. I am not an expert at this in any way, shape, or form, so please don't insult me as I just need some ideas.

Thanks

Wayne
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  #2  
Old 12-19-2017, 04:58 AM
Jeba Jeba is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wadavie View Post
Hi All,

I have a 1982 rust bucket of a 944 and I am in the progress of fixing it. I have a facebook page at https://www.facebook.com/wayneporsche944log/ if you are interested but you don't need to look at this to help on this query.

I am currently doing the front drivers wing/fender area. I am now looking at the hole in the floor which is around the jacking point.

Below is a link to two images, one showing the issue (call this image1), and the second after most of the problem parts are removed (call this image 2).

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DlHLxQa5EBxJlH7w1

Image 1 - Yellow part is the jacking point, red part is the inside wall of the interior, black part is the wall of the inner wing/fender, green part is the door pillar area where the wing/fender bolts to when it is on the car.

Image 2 - the clean bit of sheet metal is a patch that was added years ago from the inside of the car. black part is still to be removed from the car (other parts with rust is just surface rust which will be cleaned), blue part is where I intend to put a patch which will curve around the interior wall and the floor to attach them together, red part is a patch to attach the wall of the inner wing to the floor and will cover part of the floor hole, yellow part is to cover the other part of the floor hole. I know the red and yellow parts could be one part but this would mean more metal shaping which I am not good at. The purple/pink part is where the jacking point should go.

I need to get opinions on how to do the jacking point.

I was planning on using flat bar, which is 3mm thick and 2cm in width, then shaping it into a circle. Then get sheet metal which will be wider than the flat bar. The sheet metal will be wrapped around the flat bar. The sheet metal will extend beyond the flat bar and will be bent inwards to create a lip.
The other end of the sheet metal will be bent outwards (away from the flat bar) to create a flat surface to then weld to the car. I will put the centre point of my new jacking point at the interior wall so that would be taking the weight.

Any opinions welcome.

I hope this makes sense as it even seems a bit jumbled up to me. I am not an expert at this in any way, shape, or form, so please don't insult me as I just need some ideas.

Thanks

Wayne
I think your idea sounds pretty good. Only thing I'm wondering about is how thick the wrap-around sheet metal would be? Since it needs to have some support on the end of the jacking point it would have to have at least a bit of thickness to it.
Can be pretty difficult to "bend it inwards" since it will need a lot of shrinking. If you cut it up in sections it would be easier.

Another more shade tree mechanic - way to make the jacking point would be finding a pipe with the same diameter, and thickness make it a bit conical by cutting it from one end down an inch or so, welding it together, and then welding an undersized circle cut from the right thickness steel on top of it. It could be made to match the original piece pretty well while providing good support.

The plate that goes against the floor you would do the same but make the end of the pipe larger in that area by cutting and welding it after driving it over a larger pipe to increase the end diameter to get a "slope" where it would be welded to the plate.

Anyway, that's how I would do it. It depends on how nice you want it.
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  #3  
Old 12-19-2017, 06:32 AM
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neilb neilb is offline
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what picture?

found it lol, link only worked in the reply from jeba

some better pictures would be a help to everyone. the red part and yellow part would more than likely be separate pieces. if you can, look at the other side and see how it should be with factory joints, presuming it's not as rusty or someone patched it up years ago to get it through an MOT!
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Last edited by neilb; 12-19-2017 at 06:39 AM.
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Old 01-03-2018, 09:44 PM
Oldnek Oldnek is offline
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Wayne I would make those from 5mm Tube then chamfer the ends to radius the lower section, fabricate the rest of the point using 1.6mm.
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