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  #11  
Old 02-15-2011, 10:27 PM
scranm scranm is offline
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check out steve,s auto restoration.

http://www.stevesautorestorations.co...p?articleid=23
http://www.stevesautorestorations.co...leid=24&ptype=


http://www.stevesautorestorations.co...le.php?fsid=13
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  #12  
Old 02-16-2011, 06:48 AM
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Marty Comstock Marty Comstock is offline
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I generally dont sand my lead for any other reason than I cant get a file to it. Once I get the level where I need, I epoxy it, then prime, so on n so forth.

As David mentions, its the plastic state that is the knack, getting it there and keeping it there without losing what you already have built up. Also, knowing when you have enough on the panel to finish out can be tricky. Always tin larger than you need because it is deceiving how large an area needs to be done. I use the tinning butter available from Eastwood. very simple and easy to use.

There is a body lead supplier in Rochester, I will check with Pa and post the info here. 70/30 lead/tin (70/28 lead/tin and 2stuffidontremember actually) It is not cheap anymore though, one reason it is not used as much as days gone by.

Marty
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  #13  
Old 02-16-2011, 08:34 AM
ojh ojh is offline
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Joey, we are have a class this Sunday, Tom Mancuso is demo'g leading. He is old school and uses those big old irons like roofers use along with the torch. His presentation begins at 10am.
I don't think you are all that far, i'm just off rt81 near Winchester.
607 E. Main St Berryville, VA 22611 540-955-0479
After Tom is done Robert McCartney (this months' metal shaper - MP&C) will demo and explain basic metal shaping. It'll be a full day.
It is no cost, we even have food and brownies!
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Last edited by ojh; 02-16-2011 at 08:36 AM. Reason: afterthought
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  #14  
Old 02-16-2011, 08:58 AM
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slammed 58 chevy slammed 58 chevy is offline
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Brownies! now I gotta come haha, I know I would really like to make it Ive been map questin my place to yours a couple of times ever since I saw your post on RR but I dont know If I can take the time off to do it I think its like 4 hours. Ill have to think about it some more definitely. I know it would be benefit me more just to check it out and learn somethin compared to not goin at all.
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  #15  
Old 02-16-2011, 09:32 AM
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mr.c mr.c is offline
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Default Heat gun lead work.

I did a good bit of leading on my old MG years ago. I did the entire job using a high temperature heat gun. It would bring the solder to a plastic state and it was easy to keep it at that state to work the lead. I could even add lead in low spots with no problem of losing what I had there already. It was one of those 1000 degree heat guns.
Also, there was a solution that I used to treat the lead beforepriming and finishing. I have been trying to find the old article for the exact recipe. I do remember that there was alcohol and hydrogen peroxide and one other ingredient that I can't remember. Anyone? It may have been just water as the third ingredient. Don't remember. Carey
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  #16  
Old 02-16-2011, 09:35 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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A piece of unsolicited advice...go if you can.

These things don't come around all that often and the cost for gas is trivial compared to what you will be exposed to. If you wait for one in your backyard you might wait a long time.

Several of us have driven 1000 miles on many occasions to attend metalshaping gatherings. I've never regretted a single one.
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  #17  
Old 02-16-2011, 11:25 AM
David Gardiner David Gardiner is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slammed 58 chevy View Post
Well I went ahead and ordered your dvd haha. Ive been wanting to get some books or somethin lately on metal work and havent come across anything but a how to dvd should be better. The you tube clips were a good preview that it will be worth it. Along with a lot of positive feed back. One question though. You said you wet sand your finish. Does that mean you use no plastic filler. Just a high build primer, do you epoxy? Also does the wet sanding also act as your way to neutralize the acid. And one more the only other problem you were mentioning the safety hazard of the lead. I dont know if I can get real lead anymore here in the states due to all the laws anymore so I dont know how different the solder works compared to traditional lead. Thanks for the input everyone has given. I know I ask a lot of questions but I am here to learn and want to gather as much knowledge as I can. And I know there is plenty to learn from this site.

Warm soapy water is what I use to clean the panel after and a little thinners after that. Others have answered you're question about availability( they know better than me 'cos Im in the UK.)
I Never use plastic filler- The painter probably will, all my stuff goes out in bare metal. I try to get as close as possible to a metal finish. Sometimes it is possible sometimes it is not. Time and cost are a factor. some of the things I make are chrome plated so they have to have the time spent whatever the cost. Lead can be finished without any plastic after, it depends on the place that is being lead loaded, the time you have to do it and the customers pocket. I do my best whatever.

Asking questions is good.

David
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  #18  
Old 02-16-2011, 07:51 PM
A Glause A Glause is offline
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Leading is a learned skill. Everyone has given you all the information need to do some leading. When I started doing body work 45 years ago, we used no plastic filler. Everything was metal finished and what couldn't was leaded. The hardest thing to learn is hand (both at the same time)and eye corodination, and relaxing. I was tought by an old bodyman in one lesson, I am left-handed and he is right-handed. The seam we leaded was about 2 1/2 feet long, we each started on our end and met in the middle all the time talking through the proper way of laying lead on. After that it just took practice, which came on a near daily basis. I do very little leading anymore, because of the cost.
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  #19  
Old 02-16-2011, 11:47 PM
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Thanks for everyones input. And yea I know Ive talked to a few different people today tryin to get someone to come along to the metal class I would hate to drive all that way by myself but not many people I know care that much about this stuff.(meaning quality in metal work) Which goes back to what I said about nothin bein around me. Very limited talent on this type of stuff. And I know leading isnt practical anymore but if every one gets that in there head, thats how it will become totally extinct so it doesnt matter if I do it on every car from here on out or not Its somethin I would like to learn and pass on some day when Im tellin a kid what it is because he has never even heard of it. And I understand a lot of guys on here do metal work only then pass along to a painter. I just stress the body and paint because I do everything from start to finish myself. I like bein able to say I did it all. And also if there is ever any kind of problems Im the only one to blame, and have a better chance of figuring out what happened where. Another reason Im tryin to get as much info as possible on the prep because I dont want to be re doing work due to a missed step. Again thanks for all the input and different sources.
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  #20  
Old 09-01-2011, 10:14 PM
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Hello all.
Well I have been practicing gas welding. And I finally got a little one on one time with a guy down the street from my shop who used to do a lot of car metal work and now makes surgical tools. He is more of a hammer weld guy so he taught me some tips there and is letting me borrow his torch and tips. Which are extremely tiny compared to what I was using, so I will be getting my own set of this style soon.

Any way. I just purchased the eastwood leading kit as an easier way to obtain all the necessary tools and some lead. The only thing I need yet is to get a tip for the torch. I have a few other things I want to check out but figured I would come here to see what others use. Eastwood sells a tip that is supposed to slip over whatever tip you use. It uses only acetylene and pulls the oxygen from the air.

So Im just wondering if anyone else has this or something like it to know how well it works. As well as a recommended pressure for the acetylene.

As usual, Thanks in advance for any input.

This is the eastwood tip.
p37233.jpg
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