car lift what to buy

[Tom Barry]

To make a mid rise lift more versitle, combine it with a set of wheel alignment stands. You can elevate the car, set it on the stands, drop the lift and move it completely out from under the vehicle. Now you have complete access, but with the exception of being able to removing a tire.

[Overkill]

Kerry,

I had a Kwiklift and don't recommend them.
1 - you need a floor jack capable of lifting the back that can lift to a height of 21 or 22 inches. Many jacks don't go this high.
2 - The ramps are so thick that if you are on a creeper, fitting under the ramp is hard if you aren't skinny (I'm not).
3 - If you aren't on a creeper under the car, can't reach anything. Yet, it's not quite high enough for you to sit up on the floor.
4 - To use the jack trays, you first use a standard bottle jack to lift the car - in other words, it's balanced on that little point. Then you stick jack stands in the jack tray - they have to fit the tray, and there is limited movement to get them in the right spot.
There are other issues with storage, etc. Not easy to move for a single person.

Now what they can do - they get the rocker panels up high enough that you can scoot around on a wheeled short stool and get to everything down low.

I sold mine when I got a scissor lift. The main disadvantage with this style is getting to the tranny. An advantage is being able to lift a little or a lot. It gets the car up high enough I can sit on that short stool under the ends, or it lifts just a little if needed. Tires and brakes are accessable. I built my teardrop trailer on it, and it was a life saver. Could move it up and down to get to areas with little effort. Took the tires off and could set the belly almost on the ground. When a car isn't on it, it makes a nice work table.

Downside is that low cars have trouble clearing. Therefore I have two 4x6's that I lay beside the lift to get up on it. The 4x6's have tapered ends, and I put a 2x4 on the end of them that goes to the wall sill plate, so they don't slide when I'm trying to get up on them. Also, I put stop blocks on the end so I don't fall off. Kind of a pain to store them, but it's the only way I could get my 67 Chevelle wagon on it.

With both 2 post and 4 post lifts you have to remember those posts do take up room. Many people buy a lift, stick it in their two car garage, and loose one bay because of the extra width. The garage was built with two 8' bays for cars, stick in a 10' lift, and you loose one bay.

A four post lift can go on about any floor - even 4" concrete. I've even seen them on dirt, but you should really spread the load out with something. Whereas a 2 post lift, especially those with offset arms (which in my opinion are better) require a significant footing. Don't fudge on that one.

Note that some lifts are advertised as "parking lifts" others have OSHA labels. I've heard sales pitches comparing "working lifts" to "parking lifts" - but regardless, look at the construction, safety stops, cables, etc. Some look kind of cheesy and I'm not sure I'd want to be under them.