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30 pontiac rear quarter...
so i already did the passenger side.. it turned out mediocre.. trying to improve a bit here. still not happy, but it came out better. Still learning quite a bit...
Pulled a FSP and roughed out this piece. shaped this... I feel like I always give up too soon. I struggle with getting the last 5-10% of a panel to fit. fits great if i clamp it down real good but setting that final arrangement always kills me. either way. roughed out the bottom half, again i struggle with beading, because my bead roller takes 4 passes to do anything. just updated the motor so hopefully that helps the issue in the future. pgot a little bit of it done last night. i always struggle with metalfinishing.. sometimes holding panels like this is awkward for hammer and dollying, it bounces all over hell.. any advice? I ran this through the planishing hammer, used a slapper and shrinking disk and sanded out the issues, and thats where im at now.
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Steve |
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Quote:
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Jim Russell |
#3
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Getting there
Peter
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM |
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What bead roller and motor are you using?
Jere
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Jere Kirkpatrick Valley Forge & Welding HEN-ROB Torch Dealer. Teaching The Fundamentals of Metal Shaping www.jerekirkpatrick.com All tools are a hammer except the chisel.....That's a screwdriver. |
#5
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mittler brothers without their industrial motor. I just added the beefier motor and its comparable to a lawn mower. should have good luck next time.
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Steve |
#6
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Sand bags as Jim mentioned or Heavy towel and bungy cords, I've even used cam locks to secure to body stands.
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John EK Holden V8 |
#7
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progress... refined it a bit more, chopped the old one off, and built the inner wheel tub piece. One area I lost a bunch of definition is the upper bodyline where it meets the door. I lost it when I flanged the front edge of the panel over to go into the door jam. Does anybody have any ideas/tips on how I can flange this edge over, while keeping the bodyline definition? I need to do the passenger side flange tomorrow and would rather try something different.
The initial fitting is very good, and will be able to be arranged to be great, its only held on with two clecos in that pic, so the door area is a little sketchy for now.
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Steve Last edited by toreadorxlt; 08-08-2014 at 05:41 PM. |
#8
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You've made a good job of it so far, Steve, so I'd only mention a little about turning that other flange at the door opening. Holding accuracy on the turn like that is helped a lot by making a strike along the bend line on the back side first. You can strike the line with a bead roller or even a wide chisel that is dulled and striking that with a hammer. You want to weaken the metal just a little bit, but very accurately so you can turn the edge over right on the line.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
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