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  #1201  
Old 03-26-2020, 11:07 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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Marcus. I don't know exactly what you're doing. You can produce stainless bumpers. Screw them with decorative screws. Install sensors in some screws. 2 problems in one solution.
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  #1202  
Old 03-28-2020, 06:27 AM
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Marcus. I don't know exactly what you're doing. You can produce stainless bumpers. Screw them with decorative screws. Install sensors in some screws. 2 problems in one solution.
The bumper is 110mm deep channel with 40mm flanges and 3mm thick. It curves all the way getting tighter at the ends. Do see that being made by hand anytime soon.
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  #1203  
Old 03-28-2020, 07:00 AM
Jaroslav Jaroslav is offline
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The bumper is 110mm deep channel with 40mm flanges and 3mm thick. It curves all the way getting tighter at the ends. Do see that being made by hand anytime soon.
Marcus. Just an idea. But it is not insoluble. I have done many thick stainless steel parts by hand in the past. I bent the table for the restaurant. On a wet rag, I grinded a groove in the sheet from one side and then manually and bent the sheet. The bend length was 2.5 meters. Sheet thickness 2mm. I sanded by a line according wooden plank.
If you have produce a U-shaped 110mm bend on the bend press, the 40mm ends can be cut and bent with radius and welded as needed. 110mm bend 3mm stainless steel is possibile bend hand. "Hard hand".
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  #1204  
Old 03-28-2020, 09:48 PM
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I need to have somewhere to put some recovery hooks and thought using the mounting bolt dimples could work once modified.


To get the hooks to sit completely level I had a steel block clamped underneath right on the edge of where I wanted the crease to form. Then hammered down with the brick bolster.


Directly under the tray will be a heavy bracket going back to the frame and also for mounting the bumper too.


Next I finished off making the tray wider to match the grille. Normally I would have added a single wider piece at the V to flat transition, but knew it would have moved the place I wanted the tow hooks to line up with the bracket. So added a strip on the outside of the dimple area. This was welded with the MIG in one pass but manually pulsing the trigger, never allowing the orange colour to disappear from the weld before adding more.


I always check the penetration on the back to see if any spots need to be added to before any grinding has taken place. This way you have more weld thickness on the front side to protect against a blowout. Can see where it was colder at the start of the weld and I had to add some. If you do the slow spaced tack technique you are facing this along the whole weld. I never have my welds crack when planishing as I believe this technique largely removes the problem of the MIG where rapid heating from cold causes brittleness.


For the first time I thought I would try the automatic pulse, or spot timer, on my MIG to see how that would compare. I just held the trigger and had the timer set to 0.5 second intervals.


Full penetration but way too much weld even though it was the identical setting to the last weld where I did it manually. Good news that it didn't blow through anywhere though. I will try a lower setting next time. Steel is 1.2mm or 18 gauge.


Width now correct across the grille.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 03-29-2020 at 05:46 PM.
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  #1205  
Old 03-28-2020, 10:41 PM
blue62 blue62 is online now
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Marcus
Thanks for showing your Mig welding method.
I am going too get some scrape pieces out and practice your method.
See if I can get it to work for me.
One question: Do you always use that method on sheet metal???
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Last edited by blue62; 03-28-2020 at 10:45 PM.
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  #1206  
Old 03-29-2020, 04:41 AM
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Marcus
Thanks for showing your Mig welding method.
I am going too get some scrape pieces out and practice your method.
See if I can get it to work for me.
One question: Do you always use that method on sheet metal???
When using the MIG I do unless there is no access behind to stretch out the shrinkage after welding. Then you have to limit the distortion as much as possible using the cold tack method.
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  #1207  
Old 03-29-2020, 06:36 AM
Larry4406 Larry4406 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blue62 View Post
Marcus
Thanks for showing your Mig welding method.
I am going too get some scrape pieces out and practice your method.
See if I can get it to work for me.
One question: Do you always use that method on sheet metal???
Thank you as well. I have not heard of that pulsing technique for MIG.

What is this timer for automatic MIG pulsing you mentioned?
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  #1208  
Old 03-29-2020, 07:15 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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Looks fantastic, Marcus. I like hearing your experience and advice with MIG. It makes a lot of sense.
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  #1209  
Old 03-29-2020, 08:57 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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WOW!
Marcus that front pan sure looks good.
Your eye for scaling up the size is perfect.
Thanks for sharing your pictures and thoughts.

Steve
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  #1210  
Old 03-29-2020, 09:02 AM
blue62 blue62 is online now
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
When using the MIG I do unless there is no access behind to stretch out the shrinkage after welding. Then you have to limit the distortion as much as possible using the cold tack method.
The cold tack method is what I have always used.
I do it that way to limit distortion just as you stated.
I have yet to have a weld crack while plannishing, but damn the weld is hard.
Are your welds any softer using your pulse method?
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