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  #751  
Old 09-24-2017, 04:21 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Originally Posted by racer-john View Post
Marcus, splendid solution for the door handles.
Many thanks John.
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  #752  
Old 09-24-2017, 04:23 AM
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Bought a new bear claw door latch kit to update the nearly 60 year old stock ones. Was hoping to use the donor Jeep ones, but they were just way to big to fit. These come in a small and large styles, but chose the large which is recommended for heavier doors as has more latching strength.


The position was same as stock centering on the B pillar recess. It will fit over the old location in the door as well.


Will have to find a way around the interference of the locking lever with the window channel.


The large and small styles are both the same thickness at 19mm- 3/4". Will have to hammer out the side of the door a bit to make sure it clears.


The mounting plate is is fully welded into position.


Just showing on the other door how I pre-tensioned the door by clamping down onto the trestle before welding it. The shrinkage of the welding brought it back flat again along the back of the door.


Smoothed off. You barely notice the extra couple of millimetres to clear the window channel as I made sure the folded edge was still straight and inline with the rest of the door.


Here you can see the differences and the modifications needed. I hammered out the old recess for the exterior handle mounting screw and also deepened the one side of the pocket for the window channel mount.


I had done this by making this little hammer form to match the shape I wanted in the end.


The form was placed on the table and the door clamped over it. The edge was then hammered down. A mallet was also used inside the door to hit down on top of this hammer.


Can see the shape finished now.


Can't say I was that rapt in the way it mounts with the jaws protruding past the door edge when open.


It also meant the striker bolt mount would be partially off the edge as well on the B pillar as well as the caged nut on the back.


So I welded up the mounting holes and made the front opening hole smaller as well. Moved the whole lock back further inside the door. This also solved the clearance problem with the locking lever as well as more clearance for the opening and closing release latch as well.


I couldn't use the recess as then the striker bolt would not reach the new lock.


So it was cutout completely so that the new mounting plate with the nut cage with nut could be butt welded into place. The top and bottom edges were arched outwards slightly so that the weld shrinkage would pull it inwards.


Good full penetration welds, rather than weak little tacks all over the place, was used to weld it into place. Pre-stretching the edge meant it pulled back flat after welding as no hammering could be done.
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  #753  
Old 09-26-2017, 01:16 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Marcus: Great job in getting the latches inside the door. I used those same latches on my GTO project and could not come up with a way to keep them completely inside the inner door frame. I still need to fab a little screw-on cover to finish mine up. Your install came out very clean!
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  #754  
Old 09-26-2017, 01:44 PM
toreadorxlt toreadorxlt is offline
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Looks great. I used the same latches for mock up and was not happy with the quality. I hope your set is better! Luckilly, I was able to swap out to a US made set (Trimark brand) and the holes are the same.
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  #755  
Old 09-27-2017, 03:48 AM
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Can't say I am wrapped with the locking lever on these latches as worried it might bind if not directly lined up with the release lever and solenoid. Hoping it will turn out alright.
Glad to here there is better out there if it doesn't work well.
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  #756  
Old 09-28-2017, 04:27 AM
kiwi john kiwi john is offline
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Marcus

Your workmanship never ceases to amaze. Pre cambering the door is so typical of your attention to detail.
Its not like we dont know it will shrink, its probably that we just dont analyze the outcomes like you do. The little details that really make the difference. You are very gifted !!

Did you manage to shape any metal on the latest O/E ? If so , dont forget the piccies !

Keep up the fantastic work

Cheers John
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  #757  
Old 09-29-2017, 04:50 AM
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Many thanks John for your kind comments.

Now that I am back be sure to drop in next time you are down here and have some spare time.

Not sure what O/E is but maybe our Overseas Expedition? If so I didn't do any shaping while going through the Nordic countries.
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  #758  
Old 09-29-2017, 09:34 AM
Mike Motage Mike Motage is offline
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Another perfectly timed subject. Thanks Marcus! I'm dealing with door latch and post mounting currently. Quality work there!
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  #759  
Old 09-30-2017, 06:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike Motage View Post
Another perfectly timed subject. Thanks Marcus! I'm dealing with door latch and post mounting currently. Quality work there!
Glad the timing works out well.
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  #760  
Old 10-01-2017, 03:07 AM
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Now you see the latch in place behind the window channel. Problem to solve now is to connect the door handle at the top right to the latch link on the left, without going in front of the window channel where the glass will run in.


Top view shows it a bit better maybe. Can make out the door handle link attachment on the bottom right which has to connect to the gold lever coming off the top of the latch. Cannot go in front of the window channel.


I thought I would build a hinge to go behind the window channel. Just using some 35mm SHS for the support and the hinge pin made from a 8mm bolt.


Made some arms for the hinge from 20x3mm flat steel. I drilled them all the same to match link positions as gives me the option of a ratio change if needed.


I welded the arms to the pivot ends and have a 21* difference in them so one end sat low enough below the door handle.


Also put a dog leg on the door handle side to get it to line up better.


Rather than having more bolts attaching the hinge to the inside of the door, or welding it in permanently, I welded it to the top of the latch housing.


Made up a short link to connect one arm to the latch lever.


Here you can see it in place. Rather than go all the way down to the bottom of the door and back up the other side like you see others do, I thought this was a better solution.


So now when I push the door handle button, it lifts the hinge arm up and transfers it to the other side and lifts the lever arm on the latch. The window channel and glass will go in between the hinge arms.


Another top view. With these door handles I could just swap them left to right to make the lever on the inside go up or down to suit. Even just swap the mechanism if needed.


Other door done now as well. These latches can be swapped left to right if it works out better to have the lever at the top or bottom. When like this the lever needs to be pulled up to release, when at the bottom the lever needs to go down.
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