#1
|
|||
|
|||
How would you weld this
[/IMG]
How would you guys weld the long join on this panel I would normally mig it to keep the distortion down but wondered if gas welding would be ok or would it be to hard to control
__________________
Grahame |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Is that a butt weld or an overlap seam?
Mike |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
It’s a joint
__________________
Grahame |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
It’s a butt joint
__________________
Grahame |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
I generally TIG weld the long-side sections on Buses. I can tell you from experience that the repair you are doing is one of the most difficult to do correctly.
I always remove the floor as it usually needs replacement and it's the only way to access the back of the weld. Also, it's a good idea to planish as you go. That big, flat panel doesn't take heat well. I tack it up. Do a light planish then weld and dress as I go. Here is the latest one I've done on my personal project. Not a split, but a similar process: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/vi...=asc&start=100 Cool Mango, semaphore Bus, by the way...
__________________
Mike K |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
It’s not mine it’s a mates I welded this one up a few years back the whole side was a mess but was on a tight budget so we just did what we had to I ended up tigging it it turned out ok but would like to get it a bit better
It’s actually the yellow bus in the back found I’ve got to do now [IMG][/IMG][IMG][/IMG]
__________________
Grahame |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Take pictures. For me, T3 from 1981 is waiting in line.

__________________
In the morning I was convinced that this was the only solution. Witold https://photos.app.goo.gl/VTz6ETWQhnKyqUQYA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hzcKlFjOAoE http://forum.poziome.pl/index.php?topic=1989.0 |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
All the legends on this site seem to prefer oxy welding.
Good luck! Cheers Charlie
__________________
Why does dust stick to everything, but nothing sticks to dust? |
#9
|
|||
|
|||
long welds on flat panels
If I tiggyed it, I would use the .040 tung, #3 cup and 40-60A.
If I torched it, I would use a #0 tip, Tack and planish full length, either method, until tacks are 1.5-2in o/c. Then start at one end and weld 3in, and then hot planish - with a rigid straight edge on the panel every minute. Repeat until done. Hint: I do not let the panel get ahead of me. P1100551 copy.jpg THIS IS NOT A LONG WELD. (Steel panel for an old XKE.) I've had to weld a lot of flat panels, and have gone to file finished in most cases... Sedans, coupes, vans, panel trucks - sides, roofs, hoods, floors, firewalls. Steel and aluminum. This is what works for me, and is a variation on the different styles/procedures I have learned from the senior metal men, over the years. Methods are generally the same - how you combine them is your style. (p.s. - I have long arms w/6.5ft total, fingertip to fingertip) I'm not much good working inside trunks and engine compartments, though.
__________________
Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. Last edited by crystallographic; 10-21-2018 at 06:33 PM. |
#10
|
|||
|
|||
It’s how I would have done apart from would have probably tried to run the weld in one go after tacking but I think your approach might keep it in check a bit more
__________________
Grahame |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|