#1
|
|||
|
|||
HELP with Slip Rolling Cones!
Hello everyone! I'm looking to get some insight on how to make cones on a slip roller. I would like to know the process in determining the size and shape of material to use and how to run the material through the slip roller to achieve the cone shape. I'm very familiar with the slip roller machine, I've used it a lot to make curves or tubes but I haven't ventured into making cones. The project I'm working on needs a cone made out of .080" aluminum sheet, the large end of the cone needs to be 5.125" diameter and the small end of the cones needs to be 3.875". The width or height on the cone depending on how you look at it needs to be about 3". Any help would be appreciated!
Thanks, Matt
__________________
Matt |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
You have to skew the adjustable roll and then trap the edge of the smaller diameter between the top and bottom rolls but allow some slippage on the edge of the larger diameter as it needs to be allowed to skid round. Not sure if that makes sense but that's the general rule to cone rolling! Long cones with small diameter differences are a lot easier to do this way than shallow cones as they are closer to being cylinders.
__________________
Gareth Davies |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
You are describing a "conic cylinder" and not a "cone," actually. A nitpick to be sure, but shape makes a difference. You can skew the rolls on a slip roller - to a point. Your 3" width may be fine on a small machine if you set up at one end of the rolls. A light 36" Niagara may be able to do it if the material is soft enough... - and if you can skew it enough .... ? The rolls themselves will need to be less than 2.5" dia .... If you don't have the right slip roller, see if a local sheet metal shop can set theirs to do it - just as a research point of info....? Likely a good tech there can identify a "yes" or "no" on plausibility. "Cone rollers" are made for making cones - you don't need one for this, but do a search and see what these tools/machines look like....
__________________
Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Hi Matt - for cone layout (because my Tech Drawing days are a wee while ago) I grabbed a utility from the Interweb called Cone Layout 2.0.5. I was able to print out the pattern full size and transfer to the alloy. Because the last one was to go on the back of a headlight duct on the racecar and needed a flange and the small end was smaller than my slip rollers, from memory I tipped the flange in the bead roller and then pulled the shape around using the shrinker stretcher on the flange.
20160312_140144.jpg
__________________
Richard "I know nothing. I from Barcelona" (Manuel - Fawlty Towers) Link to our racecar project https://www.facebook.com/pages/Elan-...ab=public&view |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
The subject of conical layouts has been covered a few times here previously. You can do a search. I use a method similar to this one:
http://allmetalshaping.com/showpost....76&postcount=2 To get the blank to rotate through the slip roller, I keep a short piece of 1"x1" angle iron handy. Place it so it bears between the casting at the right side end of the rolls and the inner diameter of the cone layout, and nested into the v-space between the upper and lower rolls closest to the operator. I don't give any attention to skewing the rolls, but set them equally loose and the angle iron will cause the semicircular blank to rotate naturally and evenly through the rolling process as it comes into contact with the angle iron. |
#6
|
|||
|
|||
I'll elaborate on the layout part.
Draw your conic cylinder from the side view. Extent your side slanted lines upward until the meet. From that point back to the base (in the side view) is the length to set your dividers to draw the large diameter on the metal or pattern Shorten your dividers back to the distance between the point and the small diameter, and scribe the small diameter on the metal or pattern using the same center point as before. This gives you two concentric, full circles on your metal or pattern. Draw a line from the center point of the two circles out through the circumference of the larger. From the intersection of that line and the large diameter, step off (with dividers) the circumference length of the large diameter of the finished part. It will be short of the full circle. Draw a second line from the center point to that stepped off point. You will be left with a wedge to cut away from the two original circles. That's the basic layout. Any other features get added to that . When making a very steep conic, the actual pattern becomes such a small percentage of a full circle that it no longer makes sense to lay out the entire circle as described, but rather use an estimated portion of it to fit the pattern within. Last edited by mark g; 06-11-2016 at 08:51 PM. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|