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Making the buck
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John a.k.a. Mav |
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Roof grid.jpg
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John a.k.a. Mav Last edited by route56wingnut; 09-15-2017 at 03:40 AM. |
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Yes and Yes
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With longitude/latitude strips crossing each other at 90 deg or whatever necessary angle, holes can be punched with a Whitney punch (easier than drilling) so strips can be pop riveted into place. This stiffens the shape a lot, but sometimes it helps to add ties (wire or string) between some of these intersecting joints to help hold the shape and limit sag. The width of the banding has a lot to do with how it works. Some plastic banding is ok, but it's best for small spans. Very fast and easy to do a simple form to develop a concept before making it more permanent. And I agree- Some people do amazing things with a concrete floor....
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AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
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I agree with Ben in post #5, unless you have years of experience in metalworking your best chance of a successful outcome is going to be with a used roof skin from a donor car that’s close to the crown you need. Just welding it in without ending up with oil canning problems is going to quite challenging for a beginner.
When using a used roof skin understand you can crown it further from front to back but the crown from side to side will flatten out a bit. It always works in opposites like that, you will not be able crown the panel further / more in both directions at the same time. Kind of hard for me to explain but true. Good luck . ~ John Buchtenkirch
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John |
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First things first
I have chopped the roof on my Anglia 2 1/2". I have been hunting a donor roof but until the Mini roof was mentioned I could not find a suitable donor. I found another web site where they used a mini roof and it looks like the best way to proceed. Thank you one and all for that bit of advice.
I have had to add metal and butt weld it to the areas there were gaps in. I used my TIG where I could trim to zero gap. Other areas I had to use panels clamps and a piece of copper backing with my MIG. Where the metal was added I have a low spot. Now, until I read about planishing on this website I had never heard of this. In the pass it was always flanges and overlaps. I wanted to stay away from that on this project. The metal strips I added were 18 gauge. Suggestions please. Roof Problem #1.jpg Roof Problem #2.jpg
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John a.k.a. Mav |
#17
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Then you need to planish (hammer on dolly) to stretch all the shrinkage caused by the welding. Slow and steady gets it done. |
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Hi John, I'm pretty new to metalshaping, just a couple of projects so far, but a couple of educational incidents I'd like to share are:
1) If you were to make your own template for the hole when you lay the flexible strip across the hole, only mark your paper or cardboard to halfway then flip it over for the other half (like a kid cutting out a paper heart) so you get a symmetrical template, then hope the car is symmetrical lol. 2) If you find a suitable roof insert it will probably need some tuning. My advice is to sneak up on it. I made some parts that I thought had a lot of shape in them, spent most of my time shrinking back from enthusiastic hammer blows. By the way I knew both of these things before I started and did them in spite of it Just my 2cents Skip
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Skip Wilson Last edited by Sprint Relic; 09-15-2017 at 02:52 PM. Reason: wrong name |
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This is not mine but I have been working on it every Sunday for the past four years 1948 Standard Flying Eight
20150217_160602.jpg
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Skip Wilson |
#20
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Taking it slow and easy
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John a.k.a. Mav |
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