#311
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Not EXACTLY metalshaping but it is metal and I did have to do some fabrication ...
I decided a few months ago to buy some cast iron split headers from Langdon. Today I welded up the downpipes. The downpipes are 2 1/4" and there is a rolled taper in front of the mufflers which are 2". The tailpipes will be 2" also. I'm waiting on some mandrel bends to fab them up. Tomorrow I'm going to tackle building a new, straight, non-tilt, steering column.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#312
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Kerry, the headers and pipes look good and the mufflers are above the bottom of the chassis. Good job.
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Joe Hartson There is more than one way to go to town and they are all correct. |
#313
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140 jag windshield
kerry I went into the shop a measured the windshield of a 1957 jag 140 roadster. The width from outside pillar to pillar is 47 inches. The center pillar is 2.5 inches forward of the outside pillar mounting point and it measures 16.5 long.It is canted back 42 degrees from vertical. Let me know if you need other measurments or photos.I may be able to loan this to you for test fit after I finish tear down if that will help. Robert
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#314
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Most running boards will (should) span between the front and rear fender, but the underswept design of the leading edge of the rear fender IMO would not work well with a running board (without re-work ). However, the black showing between the two fenders "accentuates" that the front fender is much farther down at the bottom. I think a "rocker cover" would blend everything together well and eliminate the headaches of trying to attach a running board to the rear fenders. There's always some Cobra sidepipes. Very nice work Kerry.
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel Last edited by MP&C; 03-09-2011 at 09:37 AM. |
#315
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This week I made a new steering column. Really simple. I didn't want any wiring in it as the turn signals will be on the dash and the dimmer on the floor.
There is a tech article on the HAMB at: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=568414 While I had the fenders off I thought I should finish the radiator shroud since it will be much harder to do with the fenders on the car. At our regional last year, several people, mainly Carey Cullpepper (Mr. C) worked on this quite a bit and I started with that. Carey had built a wooden buck but it was too 'deep' to fit on the radiator so I thinned it down 1/2" and it slid in. Once I verified the fan was in the right position, I tried to fit the pieces that Carey had started to the buck. Unfortunately it just wasn't working out. Nothing wrong with what Carey was doing he just didn't have time to finish it. The shroud will have to be two pieces so it can get around the top radiator hose. I thought about it a while and decided we had been trying to make it too difficult. Actually this is nothing but an offset square to round transition similar to some duct work I made 45 years ago at my first job with an HVAC company. The HVAC guys would bend shallow break lines to make the curve. I wanted a finished edge so I wrapped the round part with some false wire edge material that was made using a Neil Dunder die several years ago. I didn't know what I would do with the several pieces I made (actually Bennett and Grant made for me) but I knew it'd come in handy for something. You can see from the paper template that it will just lay in place with just some bending (arrangement)...no shaping required. The first side tacked in place. The buck was handy because I could screw the flange in place and work the metal. I bent the arrangement with the slick and some slapper work. Other side was about the same. The engine is off centered a bit so they two sides are different. And the bottom all tacked. Here it is on the car. I've trimmed the false wire edge panel back to about 1 1/2" so it pulls from the whole radiator. Top view looking down. I'll weld flanges on the sides at the top and the top part will bolt to them.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#316
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I think you've built a dam around your fan instead of a funnel.
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#317
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I'm not following you Bob? Please elaborate.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#318
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Kerry: I think that Bob missed the part about trimming back. Are those the Q dies that were used to make the edge? That is a clever use for that.
I have a set of those dies. Makes about a 1/4" centered leg loop? Does that make sense? I had not considered forming and bending them for a curved edge. I suppose that if a piece was trimmed back to a small flange, they could be curved in the other plane with a shrinker/stretcher? |
#319
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I'm thinking he missed that also.
Yes, that is the die. It makes about a 5/16 roll that looks like a large wire edge but it's hollow. I may redo it and make the opening a bit larger. As it is, I couldn't get a fan belt between the blade and the shroud unless I take the shroud apart. Don't want that.
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#320
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"Here it is on the car. I've trimmed the false wire edge panel back to about 1 1/2" so it pulls from the whole radiator."
That's the part I missed. Still, why have the 1,1/2" dam at all? I understand that the fan will pull more air if it is surrounded by a tube but the tube should be outside the plenum. The tube inside as you have it will cause turbulence as the air tries to flow over the edge. This makes the system flow less air, less efficient, in my humble junior college dropout opinion. |
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