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  #151  
Old 07-22-2017, 08:44 PM
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heinke heinke is offline
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Location: Livermore, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charlie Myres View Post
Yes it will! Any two dissimilar metals in contact when wet, will start electrolysis.

If you put a thin film of silicone rubber between the two when they are joined, it will prevent any electrolysis.

Nice work on the car; it is one of my favourite reads!

Cheers Charlie
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllyBill View Post
If you put a thin film of silicone rubber between the two when they are joined, it will prevent any electrolysis.

Better still, use an aerospace-grade polysulphide and you'll never have to look at it again.

Will
Charlie and Bill: Thanks for info! I stand corrected and will make sure I put some material between these metals to prevent problems.
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  #152  
Old 07-22-2017, 09:03 PM
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Post Making GTO trunk lid (cont.)

Ive made more progress on the trunk lid by completing the AL 3003 frame for attaching the trunk skin. The first step prior to starting on it is to adjust the square tube SS frame to the proper height. I adjusted to make sure there was at least 3/16 gap between this frame and where the top of the trunk skin would be. Im using .063 sheet for both the skin and the mounting frame so these together gives 1/8. The extra 1/16 is to make sure the skin would only contact the mounting frame at the very outside edge.

Checking frame spacing with 3/16 round rod and ruler simulating where the top of the skin will be.



Next was to mock up mounting for the trunk latch. I built a bracket from SS sheet that will add extra support under the trunk skin and hopefully keep the trunk skin from warping if someone presses on the latch to close it. I also made up a latch catch from piece of rectangular tube. Ill cut this catch down and make it look nice later.



Now for the skin frame itself. I started with the longest section which is at the bottom of the trunk lid. This was cut to fit the trunk opening and have to fold down on inside of the mounting frame.



Next was the top of skin frame. I had to first eliminate all the C clamps temporarily holding the frame to the hinges. I made some screw plates, cut slots in the square tube to insert them, and mounted the frame to the hinges with some screws. Notice the bottom skin frame now has the inside edge cut and folded. The fold line is curved so I did the fold on a combination of bead roller tipping wheel and power hammer flanging dies. I also had to shrink the folded edge so it would fit the curved horizontal plane for the trunk lid. Im purposely keeping the join/weld lines away from the corners as I want these in low stress areas.



The right-side piece joining top and bottom is welded in and now Im making a cardboard template for curved portion of skin frame. I decide the best approach for this piece was welding in the flange around the curve.



Heres the sheet for curved portion ready to tack in place. Im able to tack the pieces in place using the SS frame to hold them for a close fit.



And now heres the skin frame all welded, trimmed for fit to SS frame and metal finished.

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