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  #241  
Old 02-13-2015, 04:27 PM
dtracy dtracy is offline
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Why is that Dave? Haven't noticed any change to the hammers so far and the end getting hit is actually getting polished by the soft mallet. What will happen please?
I've found that by using the hammer in this manner it will loosen and/or break the handle inside the hammer's head (the place where the handle goes through the hammer head has a name but I can't remember it) from the compressive pressure being put on the hammer from both ends at the same time. It will also break the glue inside the hammer head if you are using a fiberglas handle.

This happened to me a couple times so I quit using my hammers in this fashon.

Dave.
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  #242  
Old 02-14-2015, 05:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dtracy View Post
I've found that by using the hammer in this manner it will loosen and/or break the handle inside the hammer's head (the place where the handle goes through the hammer head has a name but I can't remember it) from the compressive pressure being put on the hammer from both ends at the same time. It will also break the glue inside the hammer head if you are using a fiberglas handle.

This happened to me a couple times so I quit using my hammers in this fashon.

Dave.
That makes sense Dave. Thank you for that.
Mine just have a wedge to hold the handle in and can just tap it down some more if it loosens. Good knowledge you have passed on there.
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  #243  
Old 02-14-2015, 06:02 AM
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Well after the success of repairing the other set of bonnet louvers, thought I would try making some from scratch for the side of the cowl that better matched than the ones from the FJ45.


Transferred the shape of the louver to some 8 mm/ 5/16" flat I had. Used a holesaw to get a start and then nibbled away at it with a jigsaw and then a file.


This is a little thicker than the height of the louvers, but would allow for some spring back. The middle part was cut out just using a angle grinder.


Tig welded it onto more of the same flat to get a good base to it and stop the sides from spreading. Filled it with oil to cool as might add a little hardness to it without getting brittle like a water quench.


Using a great tip from Per, MetalMan Sweden, I used a wood chisel sharpened with a curve to the end to cut the metal. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vIPZUUPPTFk Could also drill a small hole at each end and use a thin cutting disc, but leaves a bigger hole not covered by the louver.


Used a bit of very hard red gum to shape into a forming tool. It is important that it is the full width of the louver.


First louver done on new metal.


I made sure the thickness each side of the lower form I cut out matched the spacing between the louvers of the bonnet ones.


I found starting in the corners and lots of small taps to just cut through the metal and no further worked best for me. I scribed lines to follow where to cut and made sure the metal didn't move on the form. You need to hit down right on the very edge for it to work.


Halfway there. Quite like just the three as would match the ribbing, but have done the calculations and not enough area to match the intake of the A/C unit.


I kept the form straight to get consistent shape. The corners need to be a bit ahead of the rest and use plenty of light taps with the mallet working back and forth like a reciprocating machine.


Matches the shape of the template pretty well.


One thing that did show up when I did this one starting from the top, when forming the next louver, it tended to pull the bottom of the louver above it into the form.


I have just started the second one and doing it the other way and stays straight and flatter as have more metal above it.


Seems to be matching quite well so think they are will be good enough to use. I will redo the first one though to get it to stay in better shape.


The bonnet ones taper in length which is not needed for the cowl sides. So took the length of the middle one which was 152 mm/6", to make the new ones. That is an inch longer than the original side ones from the Landcruiser.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 08-02-2017 at 05:55 AM.
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  #244  
Old 02-14-2015, 01:48 PM
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Frank.de.Kleuver Frank.de.Kleuver is offline
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Who needs a louvre press? Looks very profi.

Thanks for the write-up. I'm sure I'm going to try it the same way.

Greetings,

Frank
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  #245  
Old 02-14-2015, 03:07 PM
rewdco rewdco is offline
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I have been following this thread from the beginning. Respect!!! The way in which you tackle all these problems is great! Thanks for sharing!!!

Cheers,
Jan
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  #246  
Old 02-15-2015, 11:19 AM
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I really enjoy following this thread. I appreciate how you present your progress without it being intimidating to people like me who are just trying to get started. Thanks!
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  #247  
Old 02-15-2015, 12:46 PM
metalman sweden metalman sweden is offline
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Marcus....very good job you doing here!
I have follow your work and your solutions to tackle problems is nice!

Cool that you find a way to create louvers, you can not dream about how many Fiat Topolino bonnets I have repaired and replaced, they have plenty of louvers to make, I have just used this simple handtools


Keep up your fine work!
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  #248  
Old 02-15-2015, 03:50 PM
skintkarter skintkarter is offline
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Great Job Marcus. I did some small ones on my beadroller electrical box also using Per's wood chisel abuse method.
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  #249  
Old 02-16-2015, 05:34 AM
Janne Janne is offline
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Just saved your louver work, to a PDF format, on to my computer.Great results, and something I have been thinking , to try.

Question:

If I would like to do the louvers to a curved shape, would I just bend the template plate, to the radius of the surface, where I am going to make the louvers?? ..Hard to explain
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  #250  
Old 02-16-2015, 06:32 AM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post

Before welding the cowl back together, I want to do anything that needs to be done while it is easier in pieces. One thing is to make these early Landcruiser cast bonnet hinges fit the cowl.


They need to be level left to right across the cowl so that don't bind. So have to come up with a way to do that and still look factory.


I have a piece of cowl from a Landcruiser that shows how they did it. I was originally going to cut these into the Willys cowl and call it done. But only one was usable due to the rust on the other one on the underside.


First thing I did was grind down some plate with a 9" grinder to the angle I needed.


Cut the plate out the same shape as the hinge and checked to see it it leveled it.


Then did a test on some scrap the same thickness to see if my idea would work. I drilled and tapped the bench to the hinge hole pattern. I will place over that the angled piece of plate followed by the scrap test piece and then bolt the hinge piece over it to keep it all in place.


Can just see the angled piece underneath with it all together.


Then hammered down around the edge using a chasing tool like I practised on the grille headlight holes I did while camping.


Looks like it could work.


I have made the piece less rounded than the original Landcrusier pressing in the foreground as wanted it closer in shape to the base of the hinge.


So now to try it on the Willys cowl. I first had to flatten out the bead so I could screw down the hinge flat. I decided to cut a slot with a hacksaw so the bead each side would not be pulled down in the process where I didn't want it.


I heated it with a torch as I wanted it to shrink at the same time. When getting closer to the edge to save risking a miss hit, I hit down on my hammer like this to get right into the corner.


Assembled with the angled form underneath and screwed it all down to the bench.


A few minutes later, hey presto!


Ready to see if the angle is right.


Clamped back down to the firewall and looks to have worked.


Forgot to take a photo of this bit on the other side, but this worked well to get the corner done.


Other one finished.


With the Willys stamping raised up as well, think it fits in with the utilitarian look I'm going for.


Noticed that it has pulled down a bit though behind the hinge pressing. Will have to address that.


I placed a piece of rubber on the bench and then flipped the cowl upside down and hammed lightly around the edge of the pressing. I used the rubber as didn't want any stretching while flattening out the edge of the pressing. This brought the dip back out.


The Landcruiser thread plate floats underneath to give some adjustment. Was badly rusted so will make new ones.


I cut the same metric threads as original so can buy the matching screws to suit the hinges. The area and plate was coated in zinc before assembly and again after plug welding the piece that holds it in place.


Marcus the whole job looks amazing but I particularly like this on the hinges and panel work .Well done!
Peter
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