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  #21  
Old 11-23-2018, 01:47 PM
Stretch Stretch is offline
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I take my hat off to you Peter - that's a superb tutorial on how to make that specific panel. Awesome help - really useful 👍
Matt
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  #22  
Old 11-23-2018, 02:45 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter Tommasini View Post
Rob,
Here's some pictures, it might help you and save you some time in guessing. Follow the writing on the pictures and on the pattern and you should be right. The sequence should be from start to finish. Let me know how you go.
P.S Please do yourself a favor and change that blocking hammer you are using because the one you're using, it's only good to break real walnuts.LOL
Cheers
Peter

That shows it pretty good, Peter.
When I worked with Harry Morrow (ex-Rolls Royce) he had a horse-head that was great for hand shrinking. Steel, copper, aluminum, bronze, or silver - all use the same method. I was demonstrating the hand shrinking at a big international aviation event one time and a German guy came up after, saying "you are doing the same method I use doing silver. Amazing to see!" He was 30 years a silversmith.
Nice demo and blending. What alloy are you doing here?
The longest hand shrink I made was 12 inches.
And the most shrinkiing in one panel I did was to triple the thickness, from .050 to .160 inch. Boy was that flange hard to turn ...
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  #23  
Old 11-23-2018, 03:13 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
That shows it pretty good, Peter.
When I worked with Harry Morrow (ex-Rolls Royce) he had a horse-head that was great for hand shrinking. Steel, copper, aluminum, bronze, or silver - all use the same method. I was demonstrating the hand shrinking at a big international aviation event one time and a German guy came up after, saying "you are doing the same method I use doing silver. Amazing to see!" He was 30 years a silversmith.
Nice demo and blending. What alloy are you doing here?
The longest hand shrink I made was 12 inches.
And the most shrinkiing in one panel I did was to triple the thickness, from .050 to .160 inch. Boy was that flange hard to turn ...
Ken
The material used was 1 mm cold rolled steel (temper CA3).

The longest tuck I ever done was on an a prototype alluminium guard made out of 1.6 mm, and the tucks where made on the skirt to bring the top around, they where about 22/24 inches long At the end of the skirt the material ended up to be 4 mm thick.. could not hardly cut it with the snips
Check link below................
Peter
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSwb6craw3o&t=13s ( @ about 3.33 minutes)
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM

Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 11-23-2018 at 03:23 PM.
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  #24  
Old 11-23-2018, 05:45 PM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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I'm so appreciative of your help Peter.

I worked on my panel today trying to fix my mistakes but it turned out worse, I got frustrated and chucked it.

So I said to myself, let's start brand new, follow Pete's instructions and remake the panel. I cut out a new piece using the paper template, English wheeled it with a 4" radius wheel to get the initial curve started. From there blocking on the bag, tucking with the forks and hammering them out on the floor. Repeat.

It has come together much quicker now. I've resisted the urge to shrink anywhere except the rear backbone line. I've actually come through needing about 3-4 passes of tucks along the back edge to get the proper shaping.

Interestingly enough, the inner wheel edge developed a natural tuck when blocking near it on the bag. It even popped a little (oil canned) telling me there was too much material in that area, but again, I steered clear and resisted the urge to shrink there.

In an effort to pull the material apart and retighten there, I put a couple good tucks in the upper left and upper right corners on the backbone when looking at the panel from the side profile.

I'm wondering if my natural tuck happened down low because perhaps that section of panel transitions to a flatter area than Peters. I don't necessarily want it flat there, although that's sortve how my buck came out.

That has seemed to help some although not entirely. I am continuously amazed at how you can manipulate the panel over your leg and completely change it to fit worse or better. I believe right there is where years of practice comes in.

At any rate here's where I left off.

Again thank you Peter a bunch.
IMG_20181123_131652001.jpg

IMG_20181123_140809032.jpg

IMG_20181123_142040102.jpg

IMG_20181123_144951030.jpg

IMG_20181123_151134316.jpg

IMG_20181123_155954746.jpg

IMG_20181123_161204570.jpg

IMG_20181123_162455103.jpg
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  #25  
Old 11-23-2018, 05:53 PM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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I also wanted to add - tucking along that backbone straight line causes it to curve as I'm sure you're all well aware. Really need to leave lots of extra material there. I actually shrunk it a good bit, trimmed off excess and shrunk again, especially to get the left and right edges to lay down tight on the buck. It could perhaps use more even. I've probably got 15-20 tucks total on that back edge. I'm wondering if the stump shrinking is better because it happens more naturally while you're stretching out into the bowl of the stump. Sortve tells you where it wants shrinking.IMG_20181123_174847735.jpg
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Last edited by RB86; 11-23-2018 at 07:47 PM.
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  #26  
Old 11-23-2018, 06:05 PM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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You can see how much stretch it still needs in the center - and I've beat the hell out of this thing. Maybe when I get a proper blocking hammer from Peter it'll move some metal better.

IMG_20181123_150416153.jpg
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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 11-23-2018 at 06:22 PM.
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  #27  
Old 11-23-2018, 07:38 PM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Rob, take a look at this thread so you can get your photos to show up. Currently the admins do it for you but as you will see, it's very easy for you to do it and save us the work.


http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=10602
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  #28  
Old 11-23-2018, 07:45 PM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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Gotcha Kerry, thankyou
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  #29  
Old 11-23-2018, 11:13 PM
Peter Tommasini Peter Tommasini is offline
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Rob
On one of the photo's (where you have your hand over the pattern....)

About where your fingers tips are... you need to do some light and even blocking there ...all the length of the panel.. What that will do is to make the top of the panel (where the tucks are) close a bit to much ..that is good .. because when you manipulate the panel, or bend it over you knees the panel will and OPEN UP, like I did on my pics ,THEN..THE WHOLE PANEL WILL GO AROUND FURTHER ON YOUR BUCK.

As far as the natural tuck down at the bottom ( well that is simple really....)
what is happening is that when you block the panel at the top the edge that edge will tuck... (that is what you need) BUT.. when you block the middle and blend ..that bottom edge will shrink as well and form a tuck ..only this time you only flatten that tuck out with out shrinking it simply because (if anything) you need to do some stretching done there. Once you blend that area any loose or extra metal in that area will tighten back up.
in another words ..when you have a loose edge ... if you wheel just before the edge.....the edge will tighten again.
Peter
PS the panel is looking a lot better than the first one......................
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Metalshaping tools and dvds
www.handbuilt.net.au

Metalshaping clip on youtube
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg

Making Monaro Quarter panel:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM

Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 11-23-2018 at 11:21 PM.
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  #30  
Old 11-24-2018, 01:40 AM
RB86 RB86 is offline
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Thanks Peter - I hope to get a lot done this weekend. I'll keep the updates posted. Hope I don't mess up any more I'm about out of metal.
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