1934 Plymouth PE Truck Fender

[Gojeep]

Great to see how you are going about this Tom. Thanks for showing the process.

[RockHillWill]

WOW! Way cool 'stuff' you are doing there. Thanks for posting. Keep us updated on the progress on the fenders.

[dave powell]

Thanks for the pictures,helps clear things up...I will keep watching...

[John Buchtenkirch]

Your buck has good backside viewing access so I’d have no trouble using it……… I really like it . You might consider mounting it on one of those cheapie Asian engine stands so you can quickly rotate it for even better viewing. Also some attachment holes for bungee cords to hold panels onto the buck could be useful, not my idea, thank the Grumman Aerospace hammer men on that one. ~ John Buchtenkirch

[Z5Roadster]

Originally Posted by Gojeep

Great to see how you are going about this Tom. Thanks for showing the process.

Originally Posted by RockHillWill

WOW! Way cool 'stuff' you are doing there. Thanks for posting. Keep us updated on the progress on the fenders.

Originally Posted by dave powell

Thanks for the pictures,helps clear things up...I will keep watching...

Originally Posted by John Buchtenkirch

Your buck has good backside viewing access so I’d have no trouble using it……… I really like it . You might consider mounting it on one of those cheapie Asian engine stands so you can quickly rotate it for even better viewing. Also some attachment holes for bungee cords to hold panels onto the buck could be useful, not my idea, thank the Grumman Aerospace hammer men on that one. ~ John Buchtenkirch

Thanks Gents the plan is coming together, your input always gives anothers perspective, it will reverse with more work to the ally strip on the wheel arc curve, am going to use small pieces of angle to secure the loose ends of the sweeps. This is the largest version of the 33/34 fenders (Chrysler budget range)because there is no inner wheel housing so I can't see why it couldn't be used for any rear of that era, only addition would be the curve on the trailing edge of the W/Arch is much slower.

Always a question

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Green is the blank red needs to be shrunk 1" x 5" approx., am I going to be able to do it in one or should I piece it together? I'm still on "L" plates, a breeze for some of you.

Thanks

[Z5Roadster]

This might give a little more info what's got to happen in the problem area

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[Z5Roadster]

Moved on a bit, only thing is that I keep tripping my self up with other things like learning Fusion 360, managed to get a 2 yr education license as a senior student and in the early stages of producing 3D Prints for castings.

Enough of that, back to the fenders.

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[Z5Roadster]

These should have been with above but had to convert format.

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This last one if you look closely because of my deteriorating eye sight I have trouble seeing the scribed line so something I found by accident was to lay down a strip of masking tape, scrub the line with a stanly knife and then peel off what I don't want, it works great for me but the blade has to be keen.

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[James. V. D. W]

Originally Posted by Z5Roadster

This last one if you look closely because of my deteriorating eye sight I have trouble seeing the scribed line so something I found by accident was to lay down a strip of masking tape, scrub the line with a stanly knife and then peel off what I don't want, it works great for me but the blade has to be keen.

I have the same problem, so I use a wide blue marker to draw a line roughly where I want to scribe and then go over it with the scribe. Stands out like a sore thumb.

[Richard K]

Originally Posted by Z5Roadster

Moved on a bit, only thing is that I keep tripping my self up with other things like learning Fusion 360, managed to get a 2 yr education license as a senior student and in the early stages of producing 3D Prints for castings.

Fusion 360 is a cool product. The software seems to know just what I want to do next. Really user friendly.