#11
|
|||
|
|||
John Glover's book
As for your most recent questions in post #10 regarding your pics, I will defer to others more experienced than I, as I am still learning myself.
It looks to me like you are making great strides, however. In response to your original post, I don't want to take away from any of the excellent references already mentioned above. I would simply like to add John Glover's self-published book to the list. In it, he prescribes a series of practice exercises that have taught me a lot. One of them begins with a square flat sheet of steel, (as it reacts slower than aluminum, I use 12-14"); Glover shows in line drawings the pattern he uses to raise the center, and how to "chase shape". Rather than have the learner make a series of candy dishes, Glover's next lesson describes how to return the just dished sheet to flat. For me that part of the exercise brought on a world of discovery.
__________________
Mark from Illinois |
#12
|
|||
|
|||
This^^^ is what helped me and is still great practice for me. Peter taught us this basic exercise in his class before we moved on to more complicated tasks.
__________________
AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
#13
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Really surprised no one has pointed this out yet, it's a mistake trying to put all the shape in a panel like you are trying to replicate (wheelhouse) with wheeling alone. That isn't how it's done. Wheeling is used in concert with other techniques many times, especially with a panel with a lot of shape. Specifically you should block along the middle/center of the panel using a blocking hammer and a sandbag. This will achieve the rough shape you are trying to duplicate. As you are doing this shrink the edges where it puckers and use the wheel to smooth out the "walnuts" from blocking. Keep repeating this till you get the shape you want. Taking profiles from the part you are trying to make will help you gauge your progress. Look into some videos that are available. Will help you understand the basics of shaping. Cheaper than a Class and will help you learn and understand so much more when you do take a class in person. David Gardiner's DVD ----- https://www.classicmetalshaping.co.uk/dvd/ Peter Tommasini's DVD Set 1-10 ----- http://www.handbuilt.net.au/dvds.html Kent White's Videos ------ https://www.tinmantech.com/products/dvds/ Start with David Gardiner's he gives an nice overview and gives you a lot to think about in his DVD. Then watch Peter's. Learn from The Master. He covers basic concepts early on and then in later DVD's build a 1/4 panel in one piece with nothing more than hand tools and a wheel. You will learn so much from those two guys. Kent White is active on this board his DVD's are awesome as well and cover a variety of topics. Highly recommended. You gotta crawl before you can walk and walk before you can run. This is very true of metalshaping. Too many focus on the machines without understanding many of the principles of shaping. David Gardiner makes a point of saying just that in his video. Watch those videos and once you understand them you will have a firm grasp on the principles and more. If you are serious about this it will be money well spent.
__________________
Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#14
|
|||
|
|||
I have seen some people just let the sheet glide across the wheels
and others that have grabbed the sides of the sheet and muscled it thru the wheels pushing the edges downward some to help put in the shape , so how much gliding and how much muscle ! Thanks
__________________
Dave |
#15
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
You should make a paper pattern of the part, noting where shrinking is required and stretching (along the center) Use the pattern to cut your blank, make profiles of the shape as well. Block the along the center or where the shape is required, shrink the edges, where it puckers, as you go along. Wheel it to smooth out the lumps. Wheeling alone is suitable for gentle compound curves and forming some reverse curves but not deep shapes like a wheel well housing. A different shape but the same principle would be a motorcycle tank. You don't try to put all the shape in it from wheeling alone. You want to form the rough shape by blocking and shrinking the edges then use the wheel to planish or smooth the shape you've created.
__________________
Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#16
|
||||
|
||||
Quote:
I think you should put down the shrinker.. For a bulbous panel like that, sure, shrinking may gather what appears excess metal at the edges, but once you've run out of throat depth on your shrinker you'll start to notice puckers at the end of the shrink. These can be challenging to remove. Looking at this picture: If the panel is touching where the cleco's are and sitting out from the fender at the edge, imo you need more shape where it is touching until such time as the outside touches on it's own accord without resorting to linear shrinking. A panel like that is not where you want the linear shrink, as it should be a progressive shrink like you get from a tuck, more on the outside that tapers off to nothing as you get closer to the inner part of the panel. Not a shrink that stops abruptly as you show there. SO if you can't readily add tapered shrinks, do the opposite. And given the fact that stretching by blocking is easier and more effective than the shrinking, make the parts that are touching more bulbous (add more shape) using your wheel and/or in conjunction with blocking as Chris pointed out, until the entire panel is laying down properly.
__________________
Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel Last edited by MP&C; 09-01-2020 at 06:00 AM. |
#17
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
By the way, i follow you guys in IG
__________________
Instagram @RealRiotRacing |
#18
|
||||
|
||||
In basic terms, whatever is touching is what needs more shape until EVERYTHING is touching. This may explain better, if both edges were in the air, and the center was touching, well the center needs more shape to allow the outside edges to come down. Thanks for the follow!
__________________
Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel Last edited by MP&C; 09-02-2020 at 02:07 PM. |
#19
|
|||
|
|||
I made some progress the other night. Looking at the first picture I wheeled in a different direction than i had been. I used a larger radius wheel, i believe it was the 6inch.
This helped some. But then look at the second picture. I went tot he Shrinker to try and get rid of those wavy spots along that edge. And that created a pinch line and screwed up all my progress. So i went back at it and got it pretty close again. I will do what MP&C says and hope that bring things together. I almost feel like i need a flat wheel to flatten out that edge that would be closer to the wheel well. IMG_2265.jpg IMG_2266.jpg
__________________
Instagram @RealRiotRacing Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 09-04-2020 at 09:31 PM. |
#20
|
||||
|
||||
If you manage to get the edges sitting down all around the perimeter of that panel, you may be no where closer to finishing the part than you are now.
Take some small balls of modelling clay and place them in random places under your patch when you think you're done. If they don't squish down to 1/32" thick, you have too much crown in the middle. What you need are some profile gauges. Since you have a shrinker, they are easy to make from strips of steel/aluminum. Make lines on your fender with numbers corresponding to your profile guages. Make the same lines on your panel. Using these will tell you where you need more or less crown. If you have too much crown in the middle, you need to wheel the outboard edges. Not only the edges, blend inwards but not all the way to the center again as that adds crown and you're right back to where you started. The exercise mentioned about putting a crown into a 12" square and then making it flat again will help you learn exactly what needs to be done to get it to where it needs to go. (I really need to try this myself, so yes, I'm guilty of bypassing something so important) I think I will show this exercise at my upcoming meet. |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|