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  #1  
Old 04-22-2020, 06:37 AM
Bart Bart is offline
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Default Hammer form/tear

Hi guys

I have an issue with the sheet metal tearing in the corner, I guess the material is beyond the point of stretching so it tears.
Any ideas how to prevent this?
The first picture shows the corner had torn so I had to form a little patch which is fine, I can weld and file but if this extra work can be prevented even better.
In the pictures, I have one part formed with the small patch, another in process and the bondo (bog) form.
Recently made shrinking dies which did make life a little easier.

94390389_1600871146738034_8595470276563566592_n[1].jpg

94608285_239976230714879_9008915613866786816_n[1].jpg

94143901_3211475498877331_2535016820541227008_n[1].jpg

93857564_160218562002197_3905864446056071168_n[1].jpg

Thanks
Bart
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Last edited by Steve Hamilton; 04-22-2020 at 07:22 AM.
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Old 04-22-2020, 09:03 AM
billfunk29 billfunk29 is offline
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Default rips

The obvious first step is to anneal the metal (looks like steel) This will prevent tearing but you may then have real thin material. I am not very good at it, but I have seen Peter Tommasini do it like magic. You have to "move" metal from the surrounding area so the stretch is spread out. I sometimes use stakes or other objects as a rouging form, just concentrating on moving metal into the stretch area. Check out Peters videos for a better explanation..
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Old 04-23-2020, 01:06 AM
Bart Bart is offline
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Very good points. thank you.
Where are Peters videos? Where can I buy them?

Quote:
Originally Posted by billfunk29 View Post
The obvious first step is to anneal the metal (looks like steel) This will prevent tearing but you may then have real thin material. I am not very good at it, but I have seen Peter Tommasini do it like magic. You have to "move" metal from the surrounding area so the stretch is spread out. I sometimes use stakes or other objects as a rouging form, just concentrating on moving metal into the stretch area. Check out Peters videos for a better explanation..
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Old 04-23-2020, 02:45 AM
galooph galooph is offline
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Originally Posted by Bart View Post
Very good points. thank you.
Where are Peters videos? Where can I buy them?
Hi Bart,

There's more info on Peter's DVDs at http://www.handbuilt.net.au/dvds.html and you can always message him on here.
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Old 04-23-2020, 07:29 AM
Bart Bart is offline
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thanks mate

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Hi Bart,

There's more info on Peter's DVDs at http://www.handbuilt.net.au/dvds.html and you can always message him on here.
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  #6  
Old 04-23-2020, 01:50 PM
Overkill Overkill is offline
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Default Heat

Another trick I've used (just yesterday) that I picked up from Kent White, is to simply add a bit of heat. It doesn't have to be red hot, but just a little heat to get it moving. Because I don't have the skill Kent does, sometimes I use a propane torch to not get carried away.
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Old 04-23-2020, 05:44 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Originally Posted by Bart View Post
...
Where are Peters videos? Where can I buy them?
You can contact him here as well, https://metalshapershub.com/

Cheers Charlie
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Old 04-24-2020, 02:58 AM
Bart Bart is offline
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thanks guys
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Old 04-25-2020, 03:12 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bart View Post
thanks guys

Hi Bart,
When you "flare" out a flange from an outside corner, you are thinning the metal a lot - meaning reducing the thickness by one-half, and sometimes more. !!
If you have to ask more than a half-inch of flange width to do this .... URK!
"Warning Will Robinson - DANGER."

In production - squares of added (welded) metal are seen when flanges of any significant width are needed 90deg around an outside flanged corner.
For the craftsman shaping his way out of the corner, over 90deg, and then fanning around that spread, you have to "borrow" metal from the surrounding area. This means using a cross pein hammer and going at the surface to stretch it out first. Make it nice and wavy as you practice your targeting whacks. Then work the flange over, but not with heavy blows - use tentative blows to see if you have generated enough "pre-stretch." Then you can always knock the flange back vertical and whack some more.


(I just use a little heat to soften the metal so my cross pein can borrow as I drive the flange over the form - but this I learned from carefully examining the work on the coachbuilt cars I restored as a young pup metalboy at HAC. Since we restored 12-14 cars per year I saw a load of metalwork under my own hands for the 5+ years I worked there. And I learned to highlight the back side and illuminate it to show me all of the tracks of the guys making the panelwork originally - no matter England, Italy, Germany, or US of A.)
- end-
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Old 04-25-2020, 07:01 PM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
Hi Bart,
When you "flare" out a flange from an outside corner, you are thinning the metal a lot - meaning reducing the thickness by one-half, and sometimes more. !!
If you have to ask more than a half-inch of flange width to do this .... URK!
"Warning Will Robinson - DANGER."

In production - squares of added (welded) metal are seen when flanges of any significant width are needed 90deg around an outside flanged corner.
For the craftsman shaping his way out of the corner, over 90deg, and then fanning around that spread, you have to "borrow" metal from the surrounding area. This means using a cross pein hammer and going at the surface to stretch it out first. Make it nice and wavy as you practice your targeting whacks. Then work the flange over, but not with heavy blows - use tentative blows to see if you have generated enough "pre-stretch." Then you can always knock the flange back vertical and whack some more.


(I just use a little heat to soften the metal so my cross pein can borrow as I drive the flange over the form - but this I learned from carefully examining the work on the coachbuilt cars I restored as a young pup metalboy at HAC. Since we restored 12-14 cars per year I saw a load of metalwork under my own hands for the 5+ years I worked there. And I learned to highlight the back side and illuminate it to show me all of the tracks of the guys making the panelwork originally - no matter England, Italy, Germany, or US of A.)
- end-
Great advise.
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