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  #1  
Old 10-13-2016, 06:08 PM
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Z5Roadster Z5Roadster is offline
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Default 1934 Plymouth PE Truck Fender

Need a simple buck which will reverse ?? for the rear fenders of the Pickup I'm restoring, it came with 37/8 fenders which are completely wrong. Fortunately I'm also working on a 33 coupe that I can get contours data from. The build that this thread refers to can be found here http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=12747

IMG_0513.jpg

IMG_0515.jpg

IMG_0516.jpg

IMG_0517.jpg

IMG_0518.jpg

IMG_0519.jpg

The sheet represents the bed side to give a datum to work from.

IMG_0522.jpg

IMG_0521.jpg

These stations are made from 5/8" x 0.08" aluminium flat

IMG_0528.jpg

The plan is to form a set of profile gauges, cut a base and back board bracket them together, cut a curved to the wheel arch profile less the material for the rolled edge. Fix the curved piece to the base board and screw the stations in position, they will probably need to have radial support on the inside but time will tell.
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Last edited by Z5Roadster; 10-15-2016 at 04:11 PM. Reason: Truck build link added
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  #2  
Old 10-14-2016, 05:21 PM
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Little bit more today, the stations are formed, the back board and wheel arch are cut, will soon know if I need to add extra supports to stop flexing of the profiles when in use.

Found that 2 hacksaw blades together cut just under the 0.08" to give a tight fit to the backboard

IMG_0533.jpg

The wheel arch board is cut 5/8" inboard to allow for the wired edge, plan is to screw a piece of 1 1/4" ally strip to the profile and then hacksaw the location slots to secure the inside edge of the profiles. when finished I will cut the centre out of the board to give access to fit.

IMG_0531.jpg

Jacks are used to aid initial line up and a flexible straight edge will be used to fine tune the curvature flow.

IMG_0530.jpg

It is my intention to only use this buck for just one pair of fenders although it would be easy to modify it for other 33/34 Chrysler products.

Hope you find this of interest.
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:21 AM
Dyce Dyce is offline
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Thanks for sharing Tom. Nice work! Did you use a profile gauge to get the shape of the sweeps? Was that the flexible straightedge?
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Old 10-15-2016, 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Dyce View Post
Thanks for sharing Tom. Nice work! Did you use a profile gauge to get the shape of the sweeps? Was that the flexible straightedge?
Hi Jeff, it's good to share, the sweeps were formed on my shrinker just laid the copper/bronze strip as in photo 4 marked a sharpie line at either end of the rad and transferred that to the blank sweep then a little at a time shrunk the strip until it fitted the pattern fender. The flexible straightedge will be used when assembled and ridged as a proving tool, take a piece of strip that is flexible but returns to it's original shape when released I have used 3/32" birch ply about 3/4" wide but could be ally, brass or my favourite beryllium copper, wrap it over the outside of the sweeps, it should touch every station, if you have a high spot you will possibly get daylight between the station either side, with a low you will have a gap on the low.

Some time back I took one of my cobra rear fender bucks to Geoff Moss while having wheeling tuition, he showed me this simple method which works on most panels. It wont work on the outside of the wheel arch, will try and remember to post a pic when the time comes.
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Old 10-15-2016, 05:50 PM
Dyce Dyce is offline
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It looks like it would work good. I will be looking forward to seeing your progress.
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Old 10-15-2016, 10:15 PM
dave powell dave powell is offline
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Default What radius

What radius did you use ,I have to do the same thing,as I have the front half of a 1934pf,looking to make it into a woodie..I have a ser of 1933 front fenders,that I will use.
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Old 10-16-2016, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dave powell View Post
What radius did you use ,I have to do the same thing,as I have the front half of a 1934pf,looking to make it into a woodie..I have a ser of 1933 front fenders,that I will use.
Hi Dave, I take it you refer to the wheel arch, at the moment it is the same as the 33 but will pull the 34 out of storage in the morning just to check, thanks.

33 PD Front
33 4D Sedan (2).jpg

33 PD Rear
33 4D Sedan (3).jpg

34 PE Rear
$_17 (2).jpg

34 PE Front
20150626_143141.jpg

This is a PF/G instrument panel which will be going spare once I'm wired up and tested, bought before I realised the PE should be ivory colour face.
PFPG cluster.jpg

Get back to you soon.
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Old 10-16-2016, 11:09 PM
dave powell dave powell is offline
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Hi Tom nice pictures,what Iam thinking of is using the 33 fenders up front and making a set of fenders for the rear,as the sides of a woodie are flat and straight,Iam think more of the pick up style of fender on the side that joints the body,when you think of getting rid of that dash insert let me know,I may be interested.Dave
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Last edited by dave powell; 10-16-2016 at 11:12 PM.
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Old 10-17-2016, 02:02 AM
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Got you now Dave you want 34 Dodge KC rears.

34 KC.jpg
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Tom Poulter

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Last edited by Z5Roadster; 10-17-2016 at 04:10 AM.
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Old 10-17-2016, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave powell View Post
Hi Tom nice pictures,what Iam thinking of is using the 33 fenders up front and making a set of fenders for the rear,as the sides of a woodie are flat and straight,Iam think more of the pick up style of fender on the side that joints the body,when you think of getting rid of that dash insert let me know,I may be interested.Dave
Hi Dave, gave your rear fenders a bit of thought, I take it you will be having an inner fender similar to my Coupe, it may be worth thinking about bolting the new fenders into the the underside of the inners as would be the same as the production cars. Regarding the wheel arch rad 33/34 are virtually the same

Strange view, the Coupe is on the ramp, the inner fender gives the appearance of going out instead of inwards.
20161017_133609.jpg

Just have to check the flow of the sweeps before locking them in
IMG_0539.jpg

Note the way the sweeps are located into the wheel arch trim line
IMG_0540.jpg

IMG_0541.jpg

The buck is located to the base board so that excess material can hang free.
IMG_0542.jpg
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