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Hood scoop
Although new to the site, I've been researching and tying to learn about metal shaping for several months now. Knowing I still know nothing, having only swing a hammer against bent splash shields from under my sons 65 valiant, I am trying to work out how to make my first project.
We need to put a hood scoop on it to clear the motor and we're partial to the 66-67 Hemi A990 style as in the attached picture. Given that I had the tools, here is the process as I "think" it would go.... 1. Cut out the basic shape (roughly) from a template. One piece. 2. Crown it slightly using an english wheel , a more from side to side than front to back. 3. Bead roll the crease in the center. 4. Bead roll the raised portions. 5. Fold the sides and edges, just slightly to establish a line 6. Begin hammer forming the corners 7. Fold edges more. 8. Repeat 7&8 until edges and sides are where they need to be 9. Finally shape the mouth of the scoop and trim the rest to final size. The reality is I don't have the fancy tools, so here is what I'll need to do (I think) 1. 1. Cut out the basic shape (roughly) from a template. One piece. 2. roll it from side to side, crown in one direction. 3. Hammer form the front to back crown ever so slightly using 4 bagillion light taps. 4. create the crease using a piece of 1/4 rod and tap it down over a rubber mat or something similar. 5. Create the 'raised portions' using a 2 layer hammer form/press die out of 3/4 ply, top portion open around the edge. Use the cut out from that as a "die". Hing it so I can press, stomp, hammer it and form the raised area. 6. Fold the sides and edges, just slightly to establish a line 7. Begin hammer forming the corners 8. Fold edges more. 9. Repeat 7&8 until edges and sides are where they need to be 10. Finally shape the mouth of the scoop and trim the rest to final size.. I realize this is all probably rubbish but I gotta start somewhere. All comments welcome. Thanks hood_scoop.jpg
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Corey Last edited by Cuda416; 06-18-2020 at 08:16 AM. |
#2
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I was thinking if a guy just had a brake, or a way to make the straight bends, he might be able to get close going about it thisaway-
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Matt |
#3
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Thanks Matt, for most of that I'd agree, but if you look at the picture, the raised area on the top (not the crease) doesn't go all the way from front to back, but actually forms a sort of "U" shape with the flat bottom. The center ridge doesn't go all the way from front to back. Still, you raise good points and the brake ideas is exactly how I was going to make the creases along the sides to start the downward folds on the sides and back, then shrink the corners. I suppose could make the crease and then shrink the spots where it's not supposed to have the crease back down. In my perfect worlds, which is admittedly far from reality due to my lack of current skill and experience with metal shaping, is that there are no welded spots. I know this will be a real challenge and I may make several attempts before i get it right or succumb to cutting/welding corners instead of hammer forming. I've attached a couple of more pictures showing the details. The steel one, I believe to be an original part. s-l400.jpg s-l401.jpg
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Corey Last edited by galooph; 06-19-2020 at 04:03 AM. |
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I did notice the area at rear, see bottom left of sketch. A little welding is no sin on that part but I understand the need to explore and push your capability. Perhaps more professional approaches will be presented when your plan is reviewed by others. I, too am low on the shaping totem. Above all, enjoy the project.
One thing I noticed about the plan was it sounded like you want to trim the part first (cut piece to planned size). I advise keeping outside edges oversize until shaping is complete. And that you do the whole thing in posterboard and tape first. Sometimes that helps, one way or another. That would allow you to see it on the vehicle and alter proportions if desired.
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Matt |
#5
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Awesome, thanks again for the advise, it is appreciated. I'll say when I mention "cutting to size" I meant down from the typical 4'x10' sheet of steel. I should have said "rough size" but you make a great point. Thanks again. I'll go edit my post.
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Corey |
#6
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One more thing. Your drawings were amazingly clear and readable. You took some time and i really do appreciate it. I'm used to people drawing things on napkins or using a paint program to diagram things. lol. Well done !
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Corey |
#7
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Let us know how it goes. A 65 Valiant isn't the easiest car to pick a scoop for but in my imagination it seems suitable. Whatcha got in it, anyhow? Must be kinda hairy.
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Matt |
#8
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Oh, crap!
I forgot to resize that photo. I know better but its done now. The guys like them about 1000 pixels wide and thats straight off the camera. My bad. I don't post here much and it slipped my mind. Woops!
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Matt |
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We put a 5.9 (360) from 98 Durango in it. We haven't got it on the road yet and the motor has had nothing done to it other than removing the fuel injection and reverting it a carburetor. Still, with a little tuning we should get into the high 200's as far as hp, but with the car being 2800 pounds soaking wet, it should fun to drive. We're also putting a ford 8.8 with 3.73 limited slip. An 8-3/4 would be preferred but when you can get a rear end for $130 with posi and disc brakes almost ready to go, it wins hands down. Once it's running, rolling and stopping, it will be a rolling project that we can race once in a while. My schedule has been compressed somewhat though since he's enlisted in the Marines... chip off the old block and the blocks foundation. 3rd gen... While i can certainly go the easy rought and buy a fiberglass (bad word here?) scoop based on the 66-67 hemi scoops, I think making one would be a nice way to go for that blood sweat and tears touch. Hopefully we'll have time to make some real changes like a cam swap and port a set of heads, but for now it will be a really snappy go cart
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Corey |
#10
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Nice.
Blood, sweat, and tears for the win.
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Matt |
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