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  #11  
Old 05-07-2017, 09:53 AM
Overkill Overkill is offline
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Default Headlight Rings

Hi Tj,

I'm concerned about your weld cracking comment. You haven't mentioned the type of material the headlight rings were made out of, or the thickness?

My concern is that there may be an issue in the weld itself that's making it brittle, and subject to cracking, when you start to drive the car. Was it stainless? Chrome covered steel, where you properly removed the chrome before welding? Did you weld the ring to a thickened area at the end of the fender?

I saw one instance where someone managed to weld pot metal tail light housings onto the body (67 Chevelle). As soon as he started driving the car, the vibrations caused a crack right through his new paint job.
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  #12  
Old 05-07-2017, 04:12 PM
bodyman224 bodyman224 is offline
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Default high spot problem

I would take a small rounded punch or cheep screw driver and my body hammer an tap down the high spot in a linear circle starting from the out edge of the high spot working my way to the center until I get the high spots down one by one
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  #13  
Old 05-08-2017, 11:15 AM
tjratz tjratz is offline
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Thank you all. I ended up heating it with a shrink tip on my stud gun and that seemed to work . I did have to redo the filler work which is no big deal to me. I'm also looking at either buying a TIG or torch set up to use when welding.

Thanks again

TJ
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  #14  
Old 05-09-2017, 08:13 AM
ojh ojh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjratz View Post
Thank you all. I ended up heating it with a shrink tip on my stud gun and that seemed to work . I did have to redo the filler work which is no big deal to me. I'm also looking at either buying a TIG or torch set up to use when welding.

Thanks again

TJ
The shrinking tip on stud guns work great, I use one often.
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  #15  
Old 05-09-2017, 03:41 PM
tjratz tjratz is offline
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John,
The rings are made from 18 gauge steel. I'm using .035 mig wire. When I hammer the highs down the metal around the welds crack. I've always had this problem. I never have been able to do nor understand how people metal finish Mig welds. I guess a TIG or OA set up is in my future
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  #16  
Old 05-09-2017, 04:05 PM
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While MIG is not optimal, I've used it quite a bit and NEVER had a problem with cracking from planishing welds or any other bumping process. Can you post pictures of your welds front and back, perhaps some weld critique may help the issue.
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  #17  
Old 05-09-2017, 04:41 PM
tjratz tjratz is offline
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Do you know if any videos out there that shows how to metal finish /plannish MIG welds?
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  #18  
Old 05-09-2017, 05:52 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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I don't know of any videos.
I would think that .035 is a little large.
The weld needs to be hot and quick, with very little bead build up, but good penatration.
All weld bead that is proud of the surface must be ground down to almost metal thickness.
As you are planishing use a file to check flow of the panel, and also to remove the rest of the weld bead.
Practice on scrap to see how high to set welder
Fit up the panels with very little to no gap.

Steve
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Old 05-10-2017, 05:28 AM
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I planish and wheel mig welds all the time and it never has cracked since I switched to 0.6 wire. Used to sometimes on 0.9.
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  #20  
Old 05-10-2017, 07:52 AM
tjratz tjratz is offline
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.023 is the smallest I can find locally. I'll pick some up and try that out. I have been told that MIG welds are more brittle that's why everyone prefers O/A or TIG. Learn something new everyday.

Thanks everyone
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