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#1
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Best method to replicate a spot weld without a spot welder
I've asked this question before on other forums , but have never gotten a very satisfactory answer (to me at least).
How best to replicate a spot weld if I have to plug weld? I can lay down a nice slighlty below the surface plug weld with a MIG, I can kinda rosette weld using gas, and about the same with a TIG. I don't have a Spot Welder at the moment and for the forseeable future I don't have the funds to buy something like a used Pro Spot or equivalent. Collision Repair it really doesn't matter if the plug welds don't look the same but I am starting to do more restoration work and I want to hold myself to a higher level. I have in the past used a spot weld drill bit and slightly shaved down my plug welds, but this is laborious and doesn't really give the exact appearance. I've thought of making a male and female die fastened to a pair of Vise Grips something like the 11R (vise grip) and clamping down on the flange to make a imitation spot weld for cosmetic purposes. This may work for some panels but I don't think it'll work where 3 or more panels are sandwiched together. Any of you Gents have any suggestions? Thanks.
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#2
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Chris, here are some "spot welds" done by John Glenn on an International truck build, he used a 1/2" diameter ball end grinder bit, but said a 5/8 dia would have been closer to original..
http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/an...323_n.jpg.html http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/an...903_n.jpg.html http://s557.photobucket.com/user/the...451_n.jpg.html Build thread: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=509519
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#3
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As another alternative, I have one of these spot weld removing drills, with adjustable depth stop.
I think holding the snout would help in locking down the location without too much movement, a special cutter ground for it could give a flatter bottom to your "spot weld", and the depth stop would give nice consistency.
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#4
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Have you tried the 90 amp stab with tig? No movement no drilling. It looks very close to spot weld.
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Dan |
#5
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I have had success with turning my welder up, WAY UP, (about the recommenced setting for stitch welding 1/4") and spending a lot less time on the trigger. I have found this doesn't work with anything but a supertight fit, and the hole diameter should be no larger than 5/16". I do this because very often there are trace amounts of primer I was not able to clean out, and this is hot enough to get through that, Once I find a rhythm, I can weld these all day long leaving it juuuust below the surface, requiring little if any grinding at all. Once primed and painted, they look quite similar to an original pot weld.
Hope this helps Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#6
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It's cheap and easy to make your own spot welder.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Spot-Welder/
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Drew Schumann |
#7
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Quote:
What I'm talking about is something like this. http://prospot.com/products/i4/?ref=t It can make OEM equivalent spot welds. And not electrocute you while doing it. (hopefully)
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#8
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Quote:
('cept I can't get the pinch flash to rise up proud .... )
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#9
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Is this a MIG or TIG technique you described Marty? Sounds similar to what I do with a MIG when plug welding.
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Chris (trying to be the best me I can be) |
#10
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Hi Chris
This method has worked for me. Mig weld the Parts, try to keep the bead close to flush, then grind them flush all along the pinch weld. Start with 40 grit then 80, or finer. Should look like no welds. Now select a punch with a flat the size that you like, to match the other spots welds on the car. I have modified a couple old punches. Use fairly heavy hammer to dimple the seam. Place them along side of the welds not on the weld. Try some practic parts to get the feel for the hammer swing. I will even make a few with the punch not square to panel, as I have noticed that when the hand operated spot welder was used years ago many looked kinda twisted. Also not at a measured spacing. Can't reproduce the flash with this method, but if an original panel was sandblasted and or sanded the flash would not show after painting either. Steve
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Steve Hamilton Hamilton Classics Auto Restoration & Metalshaping |
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