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Old 04-29-2017, 06:19 PM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is offline
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Default Best method to replicate a spot weld without a spot welder

I've asked this question before on other forums , but have never gotten a very satisfactory answer (to me at least).

How best to replicate a spot weld if I have to plug weld? I can lay down a nice slighlty below the surface plug weld with a MIG, I can kinda rosette weld using gas, and about the same with a TIG. I don't have a Spot Welder at the moment and for the forseeable future I don't have the funds to buy something like a used Pro Spot or equivalent.

Collision Repair it really doesn't matter if the plug welds don't look the same but I am starting to do more restoration work and I want to hold myself to a higher level. I have in the past used a spot weld drill bit and slightly shaved down my plug welds, but this is laborious and doesn't really give the exact appearance. I've thought of making a male and female die fastened to a pair of Vise Grips something like the 11R (vise grip) and clamping down on the flange to make a imitation spot weld for cosmetic purposes. This may work for some panels but I don't think it'll work where 3 or more panels are sandwiched together.

Any of you Gents have any suggestions?

Thanks.
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Old 04-29-2017, 06:43 PM
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MP&C MP&C is offline
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Chris, here are some "spot welds" done by John Glenn on an International truck build, he used a 1/2" diameter ball end grinder bit, but said a 5/8 dia would have been closer to original..


http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/an...323_n.jpg.html


http://s1315.photobucket.com/user/an...903_n.jpg.html


http://s557.photobucket.com/user/the...451_n.jpg.html


Build thread:


http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=509519
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:00 PM
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As another alternative, I have one of these spot weld removing drills, with adjustable depth stop.





I think holding the snout would help in locking down the location without too much movement, a special cutter ground for it could give a flatter bottom to your "spot weld", and the depth stop would give nice consistency.
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Old 04-29-2017, 07:45 PM
Metal1 Metal1 is offline
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Have you tried the 90 amp stab with tig? No movement no drilling. It looks very close to spot weld.
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Old 04-30-2017, 08:02 AM
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I have had success with turning my welder up, WAY UP, (about the recommenced setting for stitch welding 1/4") and spending a lot less time on the trigger. I have found this doesn't work with anything but a supertight fit, and the hole diameter should be no larger than 5/16". I do this because very often there are trace amounts of primer I was not able to clean out, and this is hot enough to get through that, Once I find a rhythm, I can weld these all day long leaving it juuuust below the surface, requiring little if any grinding at all. Once primed and painted, they look quite similar to an original pot weld.

Hope this helps
Marty
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Old 04-30-2017, 09:08 AM
dschumann dschumann is offline
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It's cheap and easy to make your own spot welder.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Spot-Welder/
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Old 04-30-2017, 12:27 PM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dschumann View Post
It's cheap and easy to make your own spot welder.

http://www.instructables.com/id/Homemade-Spot-Welder/
That thing looks like a deathtrap.
What I'm talking about is something like this. http://prospot.com/products/i4/?ref=t
It can make OEM equivalent spot welds. And not electrocute you while doing it. (hopefully)
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Old 04-30-2017, 03:19 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Marty Comstock View Post
I have had success with turning my welder up, WAY UP, (about the recommenced setting for stitch welding 1/4") and spending a lot less time on the trigger. I have found this doesn't work with anything but a supertight fit, and the hole diameter should be no larger than 5/16". I do this because very often there are trace amounts of primer I was not able to clean out, and this is hot enough to get through that, Once I find a rhythm, I can weld these all day long leaving it juuuust below the surface, requiring little if any grinding at all. Once primed and painted, they look quite similar to an original pot weld.

Hope this helps
Marty
Ditto here. Nice technique, too.
('cept I can't get the pinch flash to rise up proud .... )
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Old 04-30-2017, 03:43 PM
Chris_Hamilton Chris_Hamilton is offline
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Is this a MIG or TIG technique you described Marty? Sounds similar to what I do with a MIG when plug welding.
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Old 04-30-2017, 04:38 PM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Hi Chris

This method has worked for me.
Mig weld the Parts, try to keep the bead close to flush, then grind them flush all along the pinch weld. Start with 40 grit then 80, or finer. Should look like no welds.
Now select a punch with a flat the size that you like, to match the other spots welds on the car. I have modified a couple old punches. Use fairly heavy hammer to dimple the seam. Place them along side of the welds not on the weld.
Try some practic parts to get the feel for the hammer swing.
I will even make a few with the punch not square to panel, as I have noticed that when the hand operated spot welder was used years ago many looked kinda twisted. Also not at a measured spacing.

Can't reproduce the flash with this method, but if an original panel was sandblasted and or sanded the flash would not show after painting either.

Steve
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