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  #61  
Old 03-25-2018, 07:17 PM
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pplace pplace is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fasteddie View Post
I really like the 2 door conversion on the Mercury. You really got it right!
What kind of frame did you use on the coe? I have a E350 Ford frame and was trying to put a 53 Chevy coe it. The I beams are way to wide and it looks like I need to find something else. I am afraid if the fenders were wide enough, it wouldn't look right.
Eddie
Hmm, that’s interesting as that is the exact chassis he’s using (late ‘80’s E350 chassis from a used ambulance with a Ford 460 in it.) He had a custom set of front drop axles made for it, but the width is correct (if almost a bit narrow actually)
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  #62  
Old 03-26-2018, 07:02 PM
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With the front frame clip and suspension all figured out I needed to re-set the body back into position. I did this for a couple reasons:

1. Previously I got ahead of myself and never located the exact location / centerline of the rear axle.

2. I wanted to double check the ride / driving height of the body / chassis now that the front suspension was back in. I had measured and trusted this...but it's nice to double check it in real life, vs. on paper!

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Here the body and front sheet metal are set back onto the chassis. The rack itself would be the actual driving height and that's either a length of 2x3 or 2x4?? Set into place representing the "ground" as if the vehicle was aired out or dropped all the way down.

Sorry this picture got so blurry.

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A view from the rear. Same thing: Rack is actual driving height, 2x? is dropped / park height.

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It was obvious the stock wheel tubs will interfere and need to be changed in order to use this tire size and also to allow for how low I want the vehicle to sit when dropped.

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With all my measurements figured out for ride height park height, rear axle center line, etc. the body was pulled off once again.

Here I set the rear tire roughly back into the correct location and you can clearly see that the added width of the rear tire will certainly not work with the stock frame width.

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Initially I went into this thinking I could possibly just get by with a deep "C" notch on the rear frame. After doing some figuring with the rear end, tire fit, and other variables it was decided to just fabricate a rear frame clip like I did for the front.

So I once again squared, leveled, and placed the frame onto the rack and tack welded it into place. Note: This time I set the frame up at driving height (see spacers at each end of the center portion of the frame)

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A view straight from the rear. The temporary stanchions on the rear cross member are located at a stock body mount / pad location. These will ensure the new rear cross member is set at the exact same height and location as the original.

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Another 3/4 view from the rear. All the yellow tape has my measurements transferred for axle centerline, and various measurements for the kick up and inset of the frame rails for tire clearance.

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With all measurements finalized the rear portion of the frame was removed. It was at this point I realized I should have just built a full chassis rather than just grafting on the front and rear. However, like I mentioned I had first thought I'd get by with just a deep "C" notch at the start of the chassis phase.

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All cut away and ready to start building some new rear rails!
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  #63  
Old 03-27-2018, 10:58 PM
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After the rear portion of the frame was removed I figured out how I wanted to rebuild and modify the rear frame clip. I needed a deep kick up to allow for the rear suspension travel / drop as well as narrowing the frame width to allow clearance for the tires.

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Here I've got the rear cross member bolted to the temporary stanchions I placed earlier. This is the same width as the original cross member.

You'll notice the first notch behind the tire moves the "kick up" portion in towards the center to gain adequate tire clearance. I made the top of the kick up large enough as I knew I'd eventually place my upper air bag mounting bracket towards the front and a rear tube cross member towards the rear for shock mount brackets.

The front kick up that attaches to the original frame rail is set on the inside edge of the existing frame. This offset automatically gave me my 2" of clearance I wanted for the tires.

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This view from the rear shows the notch for the kick up / tire clearance a bit better. Note I added corner gussets in each corner of the notch to strengthen it up properly.

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This is a picture of the PASSENGER side (I forgot a driver side pic) This shows how the x-member originally tied into the outer rail. (sort of, I've already removed part of the rear rail already)

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Now back to how I modified the DRIVER side rail in preparation for attaching the new rear frame clip rail to the original frame end.

I've boxed in the end of the rail (past the x-member for now, and may come back later and do the rest of the center portion of the outer rail) This plate is 3/16" which will give a nice strong surface to attach and weld the new rail to.

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With the new rail tacked into position. The boxing plate now gives me a nice long weld on this face of the rail. On the outside I'm able to also get a full length weld the height of the original frame rail as well as the top and bottom portions.

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It's a bit hard to make this piece out. But this is another boxing plate that ties in the x-member and goes flush to the inside of the new rail. (This was just tacked in to fit now and was actually removed later as I still need to do all the final welding on the new rail to the original rail joint.)

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This is just a tag board template showing how I will add a top (and bottom) plate that will tie the x-member, inner and outer boxing plate, original frame rail and new frame clip all together.

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Yet another little tag board mock up of a rear corner "gusset" or cap to finish off the original rail. Under this tag board I was able to fully weld the new rail section to the boxing plate I had added. Once this rail cap was fabricated and set into place it gave even more welding surface to tie the two rails together.

I actually did finish this in metal, but don't have a picture finished. I'll try to take one next time I have the tire off the vehicle.

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Once everything was figured out on the driver side rail I duplicated all the work on the passenger side.

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A view from the rear with the rear frame clip fabricated and tacked onto the original frame.

Note: The plates that are clamped on the rear cross member are spacers as the side frame rails are 2x4 and the rear cross member is 2x3 and offset lower (but not flush on the bottom) this is to allow the body mounts to still set at the correct heights with the floor and braces.

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One more view from the front
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  #64  
Old 03-29-2018, 06:53 PM
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While I was waiting for the rear end housing and brakes to show up, I started on fabricating one of the new wheel tubs. Since this will all be hidden eventually behind upholstery and interior panels they are more function than form.

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The first thing I did after getting the rear frame clip built was to set the body back on and trim away the bulk of the floor and wheel wells that I knew would interfere (more floor will be trimmed out towards the rear seat later, but for now was just to let the body set down and gain access for working)

In addition to the floor and original wheel tub, I removed all of the remaining inner structure / panels from the quarter panel so I could start fresh and fabricate to fit my needs.

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Here I've fabricated an inner panel for the rear lower portion of the quarter panel. If you look very close there is a black line about 3/4" up from the bottom. That is the reference line for the trunk floor height eventually.

The start of the new tub shape is in place as well. Not visible is the top half of the outside portion (next to the quarter panel) is "capped off" (the upper quarter panel portion) Also, I had to "bevel" a section top dead center on the outer edge to gain a bit of clearance for the quarter panel skin.

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Here I've shaped up a panel that caps the inner face of the tub. I added a bit of a radius on the edge to soften it up a bit and the panel follows the contour of the frame rail / kick up at the bottom.

The rear flange (with the clamp) is setting on the body bushing and this flange will eventually have the trunk floor spot welded to it.

The front bottom corner is not trimmed yet. You may notice a radius drawn on, but final trimming of that will be left until later.

Edit: Right now the tub comes in and out as I still want it out so I have good access to fabricate all the rear suspension and do the finish welding on the seam on the edge of the tub. Eventually when finished all internal braces will tie into tub as they would have. I will most likely make a "doubler" plate to help spread the load of the braces as well.
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Last edited by pplace; 03-29-2018 at 06:56 PM.
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  #65  
Old 03-30-2018, 03:11 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Look forward to seeing your updates. Always informative.
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  #66  
Old 03-30-2018, 10:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gojeep View Post
Look forward to seeing your updates. Always informative.
Thank you. I enjoy watching and learning how others do certain things, so I can only hope some do that from my posts.

Once again I just spent a fair amount of time adding a bunch of pictures and descriptions of the rear suspension install and when I clicked "submit" it said there was a problem and I lost it all!grrr

I'll add the pictures again, but I just don't feel like typing everything up again in such detail. I'm sorry but I have to be vague here. Any questions.....just ask me and I'll explain as necessary.

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Since we are running the Flathead with only 110-150 hp we wanted to try one of the fabricated Ford 9" housings and center sections from Speedway Motors.

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I set the assembled rear end into place and raised it as far as I could in the new wheel tubs to see how much room I had (more than I need which is what I had planned for)

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See how the tire is at or slightly above the bottom of the rocker panel (higher than it will ever go, but made sure I had good clearance)

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I had a set of Triangulated 4-link bars. I ended up using the lower bar and shock axle mount.

Here is a cross member with mounts I made for the lower bars at the front. I'll weld it in like this but eventually cut the center out and add a drive shaft loop.

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All the bars and brackets installed. Here is the suspension in the full "air out" or parked height.

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A view from the front. The square tube across the top of the frame rails is just there to show clearance for the floor eventually.

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A view from the top.

Note: The front upper bar mounts. I didn't want to have second cross member going across the frame so I luckily had two frame rail sections to go through at this point (new inner rail and outer original rail) I drilled a hole straight through and slid the tube mount through. I'll be able to weld the full diameter around the tube on each side of the frame rails. Plenty strong.

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The rear suspension worked nice and smooth with no binding. Now it was time to fabricate mounts for the air bags. Here the bag / suspension is basically at driving height.

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I made the lower mount plenty wide to avoid any rubbing or chafing with the bag fully deflated and compressed.

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Here is a view with the rear end and suspension installed with the wheel tub.

Eventually I'll add another tube cross member at the rear of the kick up which will incorporate the upper shock mounts.

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This is a view of the center frame section. The rear just lays on the ground with all the air out of the front and rear bags. I set it up with a reverse "rake" the front of the rocker panel sits higher than the rear....how a cool custom should sit!! Eventually I'll add proper bump stops at the front and rear suspension to just limit the frame from setting on the ground (just barely....as I want it low!!) Notice also that the frame sits lower than the rocker panels, so if it does hit the ground....the chassis would before any sheet metal.

Edit: Yes that torched off original front leaf spring mount will be removed properly later!
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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time.

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Last edited by pplace; 03-30-2018 at 10:12 PM.
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  #67  
Old 03-31-2018, 01:49 AM
Turbo57 Turbo57 is offline
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Really amazing work ty for share it
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  #68  
Old 03-31-2018, 12:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turbo57 View Post
Really amazing work ty for share it
Thank you, I appreciate that!



As I mentioned at the start of this build thread, this project was always planned by the customer to be a longer term slow build. Since this project is at a good point with the body proportions roughed in and now the modified chassis being at a "roller" stage, it's time to put it "on the backburner" for a while in order to slip the next full custom build into the shop. There may be times I pull the Mercury back out to do some work on (it'll still be stored on site), but most likely it will sit stored for a couple years while I start and finish the next project in line!

Attached are several photos of the '49 Mercury project as it is right now!! Early next week I will roll it off the rack and get it outside. I'm very excited for that as I have yet to see it off the rack, rolling (though just on wooden wheels!ha) and setting on the actual suspension! I'll post more pictures when I take them!

Thanks for following along on this build so far. I hope that it was interesting, informational and well received. There is a TON of work yet to do on the project, and rest assured it'll get the necessary attention again!

I'm also going to try to attach a link of a short video of the air suspension dropping. Hope the video link works....https://youtu.be/u0v2MLvw1Wo

With that said, in a few days or so I'll start another thread for the upcoming build (the customer did say it was no problem to share the build progress!

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And one more reference pic of what this started as!

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Here is a teaser of the next project! It's a 1958 Rambler American. You may notice a theme that I seem to get tasked with the challenge trying to convert some "ugly duckling" vehicles into something that hopefully turn heads and "catch the eye"

Edit: If you look real close you may notice a sneak peek of the initial design concept I came up with taped to the one quarter panel!

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Rush too much trying to get to the end when the end is closer when you take your time.

Dane

Last edited by pplace; 03-31-2018 at 01:22 PM.
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  #69  
Old 03-31-2018, 05:37 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pplace View Post

Once again I just spent a fair amount of time adding a bunch of pictures and descriptions of the rear suspension install and when I clicked "submit" it said there was a problem and I lost it all!grrr
Most irritating when that happens!

Having had a similar thing happen to myself, I now write the post in Word and copy and paste to the email, or forum. Photos can be attached in the usual way after the pasting,

Cheers Charlie
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  #70  
Old 04-02-2018, 04:05 AM
daveniemi daveniemi is online now
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Incredible build and attention to detail. I really enjoy seeing how you approach things and then do an incredibly clean job accomplishing it. I also like the COE.

Thanks
Dave
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