The "TULIP T"

[heidesign]

Hello All!

In Oak Grove Mo. there is a nice little shop called "SPEEDSTERS" Owned and operated by A gentleman of a guy Mr. Jim Huseby. Johnny Arial and I met Jim after a post from the H.A.M.B.

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ight=oak+grove

Jim had offered to invite all whom where interested to come out for the day and learn a few metal working techniques. The day was open to suggestion from the crowd of like minded guys and we learned a few gas welding, metal finishing and wire edging techniques. It was a great day had by all and after getting to know Jim over a few weeks I asked if he would mind if Johnny and I came out once in a while (if not more frequently) to learn and help with what ever projects he might have.

Now here is the story. It will grow as documentation of the project unfolds, but with encouragement from Jim, I thought I would start this here.

Jim is building a vintage Ford Model T based Speedster. The overall concept was derived from a compilation of historic racing information that Jim and his father had collected over many years of family restoration enthusiasm.

Now most of this is from memory and I will Continue to edit and add to the story with pictures and tutorials of the project as it comes to fruition.

The original '21 "T" chassis was restored by Jim's dad, Bob Huseby in 1963. Though the touring body and fenders were restored, also, Bob never got around to installing them since he always had a minimum of 17 ½ various projects going at once. So you could occasionally see him driving around the neighborhood for the next 25 years sitting on the gas tank. When Bob and Jane moved to the Monett, Missouri area in 1986, the chassis donated its firewall and a few small parts for the roadster project (which did get completed.) The chassis then sat in the barn until Bob passed away in 07. It then sat in Jim's barn until he decided to pull it out and make it into a "quick-and-simple-to-build" speedster this spring."


Now to back up a minute, Johnny Arial and I where doing a fairly regular trek to Jim's shop when the desire was transfered to Jim from us to come out and help/learn some of the things involved in the trade. This was believed to be the spark that nudged Jim to want to have us help him with the project and as "NEWBIES" Jim thought the many different parts of the project would be rewarding to us as it unfolded.

O.K now when Johnny and I came to Jims that first day the "T" chassis was in the paint booth of Speedsters. He talked to us about the history of the car, what his dad had done originally and what some of his ideas where/are about the car.

The "T" is currently built on a 1921 chassis. When we got there it was a chassis, vintage wooden "T" wheels (the kind with a Demountable Rims), a block with crank handle, front and rear axles, and a vintage Peerless grill shell/core.

Jim found a vintage "TULIP" style seat skin at a swap meet, a spare tire carrier and vintage running boards, steering wheel/column from the barn (A.K.A. the "T" parts supply house). Amazingly, this Saturday morning he found a Tool box in the storage barn with the matching "Peerless" logo on its top. The same Manufacturer of the Peerless grill.

When we first started going out things were pretty slow. Johnny and I are not the "T" Buffs Jim is, the style is a bit hard for us to grasp.

After some information of what Jim desired of us, Johnny and I started making wooden floor boards, pedal area footboards, gas tank support bracket and templates for the dash. The next day or two we where there Jim had the stock firewall that needed to be modified to meet the narrowed cowl we where to make and had started the "hoop" for the support and contour of the cowl, and dash to follow. We continued to work on the details in wood for a few days while Jim gathered more details of what was to come.

After another week, we got the firewall narrowed, shortened and added details for the exhaust and steering column to flow thru. The dash/cowl hoop was finished and a decision was made on the details for it. The three of us had gotten the hood to fit, with some modifications to the contour of the firewall.

After a week or so, Johnny had gotten a Great job and was not able to continue the trek with me to Jims, and regretted that it might be some time before he might make it back out (we miss you buddy).

None the less we progressed. Jim and I finished the flat pattern for the cowl. After much pondering we decided to make a nicely angled cowl in three panels. Two sides and the top/center. The cowl was to be assembled with 3/16" round head rivets. After the panels were cut on the pullmax, we laid out the details where the cowl would receive the hood, the transition of the sides to the top, and the preparation for wire edge work. Initially we hand formed the primary shape, stepped the front of the sections for the hood to nest into, then prepped the back of the panels to receive wire. We finished the wire work and then used the lancaster stretcher shrinkers to get it to be with in 1/8" of the firewall that was modified. We then fit this to the firewall with much attention to detail (aka a lot of work). Jim went about other things while I laid out the hole locations for the rivets. We went with a 2" spacing on the rivet locations. We all wanted it to be absolutely flawless in termination and transition. I then center punched and drilled all holes when Jim gave me the go ahead.

That is about where I left it when I had to go out of town on vacation.

After a bit of time had passed, I had returned. Jim and a few new fellow friends (Russ Palmer, Dave Atkins , and in house technician Matt Cearley. When I came back Jim and the guys had riveted the panels, made the dash section, and Matt had gotten the floor panels flawlessly made in steel.

Since I been back over the last couple days, I made a new wooden rear tank/tool box support, used them as a hammer form for cladding of the sides of the support, made a rear floor section and modified the tank support brackets and started the braces for supporting the structures and previsions for tie structures to attach it all together for long slow trips down the streets of AMERICA. JIm has been working on the tubular structure to support the sheet metal "TULIP SEAT", and making notes of the sections to come. Jim had also found a more fitting frame a 1920 "T" frame with more period correct running board supports and braces. Over the next week it will be prepped for paint. Jim, has had much time to consider color for the "Tulip T" and with some inspiration from his Misses, Matt, Russ and I, a determination has been selected.

VICTORY RED.

It should be a winner, pardon the pun.



As I mentioned this might take a minute to finish. Pictures and tutorials of parts to come and details of things that have been finished with tutorials of how it was done will follow.

Thanks for looking and special thanks to Mr. Jim Huseby for the willingness to assist in spreading the knowledge, be a great new friend and mentor and an all around COOL guy.

It has and is going to be a lot of fun.

Bill Heineken

TO BE CONTINUED.

[John Jordan]

That sounds like a good deal for both sides, Bill. But c'mon-you've got to give us some kind of photo NOW.

John

[heidesign]

Ok,

Jim, just sent me some photo shots of the project. I will post more this next week, as I only go out on Thursday/Fridays each week.

Here are a few.






I also have some further information on the projects history and will edit for the record.

Thanks for looking

BH

[jhnarial]

Great wright up Bill.

The shifter came out better then I thought it would.

I also noticed that Jim was having another meet.Jim is pretty incredible it is well worth the trek.

I want to make it back out Bill.Maybe next weekend we could head up there.I would really like to help on the fenders and then try to learn how to gas weld them.

[heidesign]

Ill be there Thursday, Friday. IF your wanting to go, then I can go Sat, but not sure if Jim works Sundays????? Im game.

The fenders will be made in two pieces. The main body of the fender with two sides and the front wire edged, and a shrunk side "Z" with the bottom wired.

This will meet up to a modified (Semi) stock running board that will be cut down and flattened partially.




I really think I need to make some wire edgeing tools to use for sculptural affairs.

BH