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  #11  
Old 07-24-2014, 07:38 PM
SWT Racing SWT Racing is offline
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Looks good Fab.

I usually pressure test 1-3 psi for fuel tanks, and stay on the lower side on tanks with large flat panels so they do not oil can. Sometimes, I'll rotabroach a 1/2" hole in each of the larger panels and weld in a tube to help tie the large panels together. It really depends on the tank application. Your usual drag race doorslammer, will usually not see any appreciable pressure if the vent is large enough. As Kent pointed out, the Top Fuel cars are a whole different story.

For intercoolers and pressurized surge tanks, I'll usually test at 1.5-2x the highest boost/system pressure, and backpurge the tank while TIG welding. These are hard to truly test, since they are subjected to cyclic pressure loads and can fatigue the weld joint if not designed properly. Good penetration and shielding the back side of the joint keeps the potential for a stress riser to a minimum.
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  #12  
Old 07-24-2014, 08:24 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Nice tank, Fab, and better when they don't leak. Had a customer call me once after I made a tank for his racing Cobra; said it didn't leak.

I told him to bring it back.
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  #13  
Old 07-24-2014, 08:33 PM
fabricator fabricator is offline
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Andrew, thanks for the compliments and information.

It has to "resemble" an original tank,forming the radius bends took some time.
Not an easy task,learning as I worked,several "test strips" before I got what was needed.
A lot of detail involved inside with baffles/bulkheads and collector ,again copies of the original unit.
I made my own version of the Metal Ace type radius brake, to produce the matching bends of the old steel tank, way too many hours as usual, but worth the extra effort in the end.
An added bonus is I now have the tooling for similar jobs in the future.
Thanks.
Fab.
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  #14  
Old 07-25-2014, 02:56 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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It's a lot of fun duplicating an original because you learn some design elements along the way, and in your case, getting to make a radius brake, too.

Another way to make radius bends is with 2X4's or 2X6's, some heavy C clamps, and some heavy wall tube or pipe sections. Bends as long as 12 feet may be done in .032 aluminum using this method.

Following an original tank's bend radius design is also possible using the C clamp and board method on .050 aluminum, too - as seen below.

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  #15  
Old 07-26-2014, 01:50 PM
fabricator fabricator is offline
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Thanks for the advice Kent,
The tank in your picture, what was this for, and I see it is all riveted construction,how are the joints sealed?

I did originally think the bends could be formed using clamps and tube, but the 16 G aluminium I am working with is the UK grade NS4 or 5251 .
When bent, it has quite a lot of spring back. so to get a 90 degree bend I had to go about 15 degrees further.Working with narrow test strips ,it was ok, but the full width sheet was difficult.
First off, I made a buck from 1 inch thick plywood, the shape of the inside of the original tank.
[IMG][/IMG]

I formed the 2 inch radius bend first, then worked off the buck to calculate the start point of the two smaller 90 deg bends. I did find it pretty difficult, but taking care, it turned out well.

Once fully bent, the skin was put back over the buck, clamped in place for final trimming.
I could not risk messing up, as this material is £75 / USD 100 a sheet delivered !
I tack welded to long seam with it on the buck to hold everything in alignment, then fitted the end plates,toggle clamped in, for the final seam weld.
Glad this has been of interest anyway, bit of a steep learning curve for me, as I am pretty much self taught,and by no means a Pro .
Regards,
Fab
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  #16  
Old 07-28-2014, 11:48 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Fab,

You made a good job of it, using a standard process. I'd guess your material is close to our 5052, which can be a bit stubborn.

That old tank is from a late 1950's old Italian race car, similar to this car, and includes models made a couple years after. The company made these kinds of tanks from 1947 to 1967, that I know of. Yes, they are completely riveted, and a folded strip of Pb is inserted in all seams prior to riveting. The lead extrudes out under the compression of riveting, leaving all the tank edges to be dressed square with a sharp Vixen.

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I've seen some very nice professional tanks made for projects by owners who were not "pros" in any sense of the word. However, their attention to detail in tooling, layout, forming and assembly led to very professional-grade work.

I've often wondered how many tanks it takes to make a "pro tank maker."
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Last edited by crystallographic; 07-28-2014 at 11:50 PM. Reason: typo
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  #17  
Old 07-29-2014, 05:34 AM
RockHillWill RockHillWill is offline
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" a folded strip of Pb is inserted in all seams prior to riveting. The lead extrudes out under the compression of riveting, leaving all the tank edges to be dressed square with a sharp Vixen."

Kent, I have not heard of 'Pb'/(lead) can you elaborate?

Thanks.
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  #18  
Old 07-29-2014, 12:02 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RockHillWill View Post
" a folded strip of Pb is inserted in all seams prior to riveting. The lead extrudes out under the compression of riveting, leaving all the tank edges to be dressed square with a sharp Vixen."

Kent, I have not heard of 'Pb'/(lead) can you elaborate?

Thanks.
Hi Will,

Atomic symbol for the metal "lead" is Pb, Latin for plumbum, and the source of our word "Plumber" today - men who used to work with the original leaden pipes many years ago. ( I have a spring on my property which was drained with lead piping, installed a century ago.)

Lead is a common sealant for fluid-containing vessels of all kinds, but not always in solder form. In this application, it performs more like a soft copper gasket, which deforms pliably and obligingly under pressure into any and all surface deviations, making an air- or water-tight seal for light to moderate pressure applications.

Cu is for Cuprum, Ag is Argentum, Au, Aurum .... etc.

(Tungsten is W, for Wolfram.)

Hope this bit helps,
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