#21
|
|||
|
|||
There is no doubt the "real" shears are superior. For a pro, that's the way to go for sure.
But the transformer option would work. a 200-300 watt transformer would handle the load as the HF unit only draws 1.5 amps, and that would be full load, cutting heavy stuff. That size is transformer is small.
__________________
Steve ærugo nunquam dormit |
#22
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I did find a fairly priced one on Sweden (120$/90€), so I'll go for that one for now. Of course, when I'm finished with school I can start buying the good stuff again!
__________________
Paal (/pɔːl/) |
#23
|
|||
|
|||
I still swear up & down on the Stanley uni-shear. The big drawback is they haven’t been made in years so their only available used but eBay is a good sorce. Bosch bought them out and still carries parts for the newer ones but getting parts for the real old ones may be impossible. When I went to Scott Knight’s class he was crying that his Stanly shears were on their last legs and none of the 3 replacement shears he had bought cut as good. He was ecstatic when I found him some brushes back here on the East coast and got him going again. I was making a long cut one time and lost my grip, the damn thing cut another foot before I could catch it, they (uni-shears) just love to cut metal !
I agree don’t go too many gauge sizes larger than what you plan to cut, the bigger shears just don’t turn as nicely. NEVER NEVER cut heavier gauge metal than your shear is rated for, you’ll likely break the horse shoe cutter holder or even internals. Be even more conservative if you’re cutting stainless or flushed mig welds. Finally the Kett type finger type shears are a poor investment , the blades generally have to be replaced instead of being sharpened and they never cut or turn as good as a uni-shear type hand shear . They (Kett) got to be popular in body shops because you didn’t have to deflect the sheets for them to cut properly so for example you could cut the middle out of a quarter panel you were going to replace. A great Scott Knight trick is when you’re rough cutting out your panels with a uni-shear eyeball your cut line about a ¼” from your final cut scribe line. Then when you final trim with snips the waste will curl off in a roll . [ATTACH]a snip 16.jpg[/ATTACH] a snip 15.JPG If it ends up being much narrower that ¼” it will swing into your cut and you have to stop & bend it away. The wider it gets from the ¼” the harder it is to cut the metal. Thanks Scott, you will be my mentor right till the end . ~ John Buchtenkirch P.S. Give me these 3 and I will cut out blanks all day (boring) if I have to. Note the tray for waste and under sheet cutting for a better view of the scribe line . a snip 91.JPG [ATTACH]a snip 18.JPG[/ATTACH] |
#24
|
|||
|
|||
__________________
Jason |
#25
|
||||
|
||||
Jason, those are probably excellent tools.
BUT, the similar HF version is less than $40 and many people (including me) have been quite happy with them. http://www.harborfreight.com/18-gaug...ear-92148.html You could always get a HF shear and take it back if you got home and didn't like it. The only complaint I've had was that the blade gap needed adjusting out of the box on mine. Mine is a different color but appears the same otherwise which probably means they are using a different factory.
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|