what is the best protection for my undercariage

[Gudmundur]

Originally Posted by Marty Comstock

Honestly, what need is there? epoxy does the job, and i would use some sound deadening material on the inside of the vehicle. Most every undercoating i have seen causes more problems than it solves. Just my opinion anyway

Marty

well that is the thing i am wondering about do i need this stuff exept maby in side the whinges abow the tires the rest would just be epoxyprimer epoxy paint and clear wax , just need peoples opinion what you are using and what is the best

[Marty Comstock]

I spray epoxy primer on every panel I can, especially in stages of repair so I can get to areas that wouldnt normally be sprayed. In areas that i cant get to well, i take the fan on my gun to a spot and just keep spraying until it runs out somewhere.

That is likely overkill in and of itself. Anything more, POR-15, rust converter, most anything that eastwood sells, is usually a gimmick, snake oil, what have you. This is my opinion, and i cant back it up sceintifically

Keep in mind that epoxy is 10x better than how these cars were done at the factory, we are spraying them better than done at the factory, and in most cases these cars will never see the weather or abuse that they were subjected to originally.

In cases where you have one panel, like a wing, well, that is a different issue in itself, protecting from thrown rocks and suck. I know some build inner fenders, But if it were me, I would coat it with Southern Polyurethane's bedliner kit. Or, not worry about it. Pop's 53 F100 has no real protection like that, and we plan on driving it. A lot.

Marty

[Rondo]

I was going to pass commenting here but her goes. I epoxy primer all my parts. Excellent rust prevention, but even epoxy primer once it has cured will needed to be scuffed up for a top coat to adhere. Whether it be a primer, paint undercoating or snake oil Por15. Epoxy primer is just that a primer and requires a top coat. Now I like pors15, personal preference. Before I weld anything into place I make sure the inner panel has been scuffed up with at least 80 grit. Then I brush por15 on it. Once it is in place and If I have access I will brush more por15 over the welds. Por15 burns back very little when mig welded so in between spots welds you have rust protection. I also chalk all my seams from the inside. At present I am working on a 69 camaro, the rockers are solid but the car is old and I know there is rust inside those rockers. I drill 1/2 in holes at both ends blow out all the crap I can and then spray pors15 inside them from both ends. Pors has a sprayer with a four foot 1/4 tube attached with a round spray patterned tip so as you drag the tube out of the rocker it is getting completely covered with pors15 sealing off any potential rust in that area. I do this to every area I can't get my fat hands in. Inside doors on the lower pinch wells and where I think moisture could puddle. I agree with everyone on doing the bottom of the car with a two part rubberize coating. Rubberize because thing bounce of it with out chipping. I do not like Rhino liner in beds because it you slide something heavy into the bed it will rip. I do like Linex it a bed because it is a hard covering and the grit gives you got footing when wet or in snow and will not rip up. All are a bugger to remove, but in these areas that is a good thing.

[Gudmundur]

zinc phosphate hase anyone used it to prevent rust

[Hans Goudzwaard]

3m rust fighter . G...OOgle it.

[Dutch Comstock]

Gudmundur,We are in upper New York State where we ave the largest snowfall in the eastern US. They salt the roads heavily here and cars rust oot bad. All southern polyureathne paint products are ureathne products . Epoxy primer from them is a super rust inhibiter and a good rust proof base for painting over . It does not have a UV protection agen in it so only if it is exposed to the sun directly will the sun make it deteriate. S.P.'s bedliner is made from pure ureathne product and can be sprayed smooth or textured as desired and being a full ureathane it can be tinted with paint for color or painted over with paint. If They use a lot of salt like they do here and you drive a lot in in the wintwer the salt will eventually find a way to get started. If you only drive a little the ureathane products will protect your car body. Rubberized undercoating is only a temporary fix against rust. Your best bet would be to talk directly with Southern polyureathne and they will talk you through all of your questions.
The most important thing is being anal like Rondo when doibg your project with quality products and things will go well. Dutch

[rdupree]

Gudmundur, before the epoxy primers became available, I used zinc phosphate primers on all of my panels. I really liked the way it protected the panels, and it seemed to tolerate welding without blistering better than the epoxies. The problem in the US, however, is that zinc phosphate paints are almost impossible to find. They are now sold, often in small aerosol cans, for the protection of aluminum panels in aircraft.

I wanted to restore some antique car wheels recently. These wheels are for a Model T, and the bead is a form of a rolled tube that collects water and rusts out. I wanted some of the zinc phosphate to pour into the interior of the bead, slosh around, then be able to reuse for the next wheel. I searched all over, and finally found some of the zinc phosphate at an aircraft parts supply house.

Yes the zinc phosphate, and zinc chromate were good products in their day, but environmental regulations and catalyzed epoxies have pretty well pushed them out of the marketplace in the US.

[KevinH]

All Southern polyurethanes epoxy black primer that is now being sold has got UV protection. No need to be topcoated. As far as por-15, go over to Southern Polyurethanes forum and see what they say there about it. LOL! Ill leave it at that! I WONT use it!

[pro70z28]

I shot epoxy primer on the chassis of the "Z" once I had it put together so I could take it out in the weather to get it certified. Then shortly after I was asked if I would bring it to a car show, to show what a race car in progress looks like. Turned out to be an all day drizzle. That was a few years ago, and the project is still just in primer. The only rust is where I've done welding & grinding since then. It's been in the shop since that car show (6 years) where it sees frequent high humidity especially in the spring as things warm up. Seems to be holding up well.

[Gudmundur]

thanks fore this guys will have a chatt with southern polyurethans