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Hood modified for breather clearance
One of my former classmates from high school caught up with me a few months back, and had some work he wanted done on a hood for his Tubbed V8 Plymouth Arrow. He said he wanted a more professional job over what was done back then..
Here are some older pictures of the car just to show what we're working on... He had bought an NOS hood for it some years back, so at least he has something solid to work with.. He said the metal flopped a bit around the opening he cut, so I thought we'd add a wire edge around the opening and make some new bracing on the underside while we were at it. Here's the phenolic dies made for the Lennox to form the new bracing.. Here's a test sample run... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QCoTMs0ANC8 ...and a test fit Next, the bracing we wanted to install needed to go around the bigass hole, and some of the existing brace needed removing. Our new brace designed to go around the hole... cut in the flat and run through our dies.. And here's about where it will sit....
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel Last edited by MP&C; 01-30-2020 at 08:36 AM. |
#2
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Rather than screw up one of the last remaining NOS Plymouth Arrow hoods in existence, let's do a test sample first.. To strengthen the opening, we'll add a 1/8 wire edge protruding upward, which will also help to keep things out.....somewhat. Here's our new dies for the 1/8 wire... This is the "inlet" side...
Side view shows the ramps that will add the joggle We're using a 22 x 22 piece of 19 gauge for our sample, and folding a 5/16 flange, which needs a bit of stretching to keep things flat. so a rounded hammer on the top of the stump adds a bit of stretch, then a linear stretch hammer and dolly to stretch further and fold things over.. with the flange folded, the sample is run through our dies to form the joggle 1/8 stainless is rolled in our tubing bender/straightener, sized, and TIG welded to form a continuous ring. Then it gets laid in the channel and the flange staked over in various spots to hold it in place using the linear stretch hammer.. Hammering process to fold the flange over. Linear stretch hammer used to add a bit more stretch and to minimize marks left behind.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWIpwh0zZg4 Finished sample... ….and checked to the brace With the practice behind us, lets see what we can do to this hood. The outer circle is the mark for our fold, or opening size. The inner circle is the cut for our flange that will wrap around the 1/8 wire.. Getting our tin snips started... Hole cut with no filing, no sanding, and absolutely no metal "splinters". If you have issues with tin snips AT ALL, I recommend Bill Gibson's tin snip video... One of the best training/refresher videos on tin snips.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qAOQfUaRZyw Next, on to the underside. We have four places where these areas of the old structure was cut out that need to go. Opening the hood to see these remnants would just kill the look, so let's see if we can mimic a factory look here. A piece of 16 gauge was used as a heat shield and using the Meco torch and the barrel end hammer, reshaped the offset back to match the adjacent contour... That'll do pig, that'll do.
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#3
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With the hole cut now we need to fold a flange to wrap around the 1/8 wire. The linear stretch hammer and a heel dolly is used to stretch the flange that will be folded down, then a tipping tool takes the flange down about halfway. Then I needed to get in the thick of things, further stretching and hammering over to a 90* flange, all while checking the crown around the hole to ensure consistent stretch of the flange.
Once the flange is folded, the Lennox is used to add the joggle for our wired edge.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TMk4myTDvmY Bottom side.... Top side.... Our 1/8 stainless wire "ring" was formed using our tubing roller, the tool shown here in the vise when we were bending fuel line a few months back.... The ring was then sized to fit, ends TIG welded together, filed, and media blasted for paint adhesion. The channel and surrounding area was abraded with some 120 grit and some SPI epoxy brushed into the channel. The wire gets laid into the channel and another brush coat on any bare spots. Then the flange is staked down using the linear stretch hammer to hold the wire in position... Then the flange is hammered over as we did previously with our test sample. After our initial coat of primer had dried, we brushed around the perimeter to seal the wire and flange.
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Robert Instagram @ mccartney_paint_and_custom McCartney Paint and Custom YouTube channel |
#4
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Robert perfect work. In a similar way as you did the bonnet reinforcement, I plan to produce a bumper of 2mm stainless steel. I'm glad we're in agreement.
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Jaroslav |
#5
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Your old friend is going to love this!
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Mike |
#6
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Excellent explanantion, thanks.
You gave the answer before I could ask. Because I'm about to form a brace with similar shape and didn't know how. So I have to make a pair of dies. Thanks. so long the Doc
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Matthias ** Experience cannot be downloaded ** |
#7
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well structured explanation and post...…..thanks
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Rick Jones |
#8
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Very cool. Thanks for posting, Robert.
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AC Button II http://CarolinaSculptureStudio.com https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCzSYaYdis55gE-vqifzjA6A Carolina Sculpture Studio Channel |
#9
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Superb job Robert.
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David Hamer |
#10
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I enjoyed this, and linking the videos makes it even better! Thanks for the tin snip vid!
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Chris |
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