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  #11  
Old 09-25-2019, 07:37 PM
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Originally Posted by MP&C View Post
Just a personal opinion, but ribbed roof panels are so 1980’s. I’d do a smooth roof and have something more timeless...
Talk to the owner. I just do whats in my stall.
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  #12  
Old 09-25-2019, 09:43 PM
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Talk to the owner. I just do whats in my stall.

I hear that...
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  #13  
Old 09-27-2019, 10:44 AM
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Was there anyone among you who understood the question like username "rookie", Phil, did?

Or is this site just for personal opinions about style, back patting, and pointing out faux pas, predicted techniques, or percieved unrelated issues? Is posting pics the price of admission to be critiqued? I did not include a photo in the original post, hoping to keep this about the two theories.

Trying again, rephrased:

The insert can be placed underneath the opening during tacking and trimming. It can have no support during the work. Which are theoretically the correct choices on those two things?

I thought I was starting with a simple enough question. The paragraph below explains another previously mentioned assumption of mine which could merit consideration.

The option of having the body upside down while doing the work exists. That lessens the possibility of the downward force of gravity acting against the crown, and due to the crowned shape, gives heat the whole rest of the body to sink into rather than sending it toward the center of the insert. That is my theory. Relevant input is welcome and I will thank you for it.
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  #14  
Old 09-27-2019, 01:59 PM
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I see a couple things that I would work out prior to welding in the roof.

1. I would finish all of the welding for the top chop. much easier to work on that if you can work from the open roof.

2. get the roof panel shaped to fit the car much better. looks to have a big sag in the middle. after you weld the panel in it will nearly impossible to get lifted up.

since the ribs are above the panel you only have one choice the it has to go on the top.

what welding method are you using? MIG , TIG, OXY

a model A roof has a high point @ about the back of the door, so the use of a roof that is a straight line (ribs) from front to back past the high point is a problem. That is why you have puckers along the sides above the B pillar area.

Steve

Your smart ass comment is not a good way to get answers!!!



On top is fine, i would make a couple temporary bows that would hold the proper crown in the panel, (like a buck). As the crown changes so does the scribe and cut line.
I would even give it a little more crown than the desired amount, because the weld shrinkage will pull some of the crown out.
MIG welds are tough to stretch back out out !!!

Steve
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  #15  
Old 09-27-2019, 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Steve Hamilton View Post
Your smart ass comment is not a good way to get answers!!!



On top is fine, i would make a couple temporary bows that would hold the proper crown in the panel, (like a buck). As the crown changes so does the scribe and cut line.
I would even give it a little more crown than the desired amount, because the weld shrinkage will pull some of the crown out.
MIG welds are tough to stretch back out out !!!

Steve
Duly noted, sir. Sometimes one has to make more noise than others to get a reaction. Thank you for your patience. My tone varies widely from day to day.

When you say ribs, (in highlight, on #2) do you mean the support ribs? I may have misunderstood. The angled sheetmetal supports shown follow the crown suggested by the wood under the cloth insert. They could be taken out and added back after welding, or left in until a final round of planishing is in order then put back. In any case, padding will reside on top of those and they are to be permanent.

Easy enough to shim it up a smidge for that crown plus a little over the existing supports and work from the top. As you said, that should be fine. After my last encounter, I told myself if I had it to do again I would go from the bottom. But you're right, its a big piece workpiece and hopefully won't be too bad. Best we could tell, a tree fell on the roof and trunk and it was hit in the rear and had been mushed and tacked back into shape. All out of whack and severely beaten.

Like they all are by now. Thank you much for your thoughts. Top is easier.

Signed Mr Smartmouth.
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  #16  
Old 10-11-2019, 03:49 PM
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Maybe these pics will explain how the roof insert and support structure can be shuffled as needed. No further input required, just reached this stage and wanted to try and clear that up.





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  #17  
Old 12-14-2019, 12:16 PM
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With quarters on, I was able to slip the roof skin support frame and ribbed insert into place beneath the surrounding panels. Not having the heavily damaged edges holding the insert edges up all wacky sure seems like the way to go but I am still preparing.







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  #18  
Old 12-14-2019, 10:11 PM
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Scribe a line, trim her up and weld her in.
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http://www.allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=154
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  #19  
Old 12-15-2019, 11:15 AM
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Scribe a line, trim her up and weld her in.
Sir yes sir, Mr. Sir! Sir.

When I am ready.

I almost never scribe anything though. More like scribble.
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  #20  
Old 12-21-2019, 01:15 PM
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Since its not a weekday today, I resized a couple pics to follow through with so the thread will contain the actual solution that worked in this instance. The task is in progress but my procedure is visible and seems to be working great. I am cutting AT the edge of the insert so only old metal is trimmed away. The rear window panel side has more overlap and better access to peel out a scrap so I won't have to nail the cut at the edge back there. The insert IS currently supported by the padded and permanent but tweakable... roof support frame, and height of that frame and the padding on top remains changeable.





Pugsy, my response to you was jocular sarcasm. I have metric tons of respect for your guidance on all things metal and you know this. I'm just not always the dry professional linguist as you also know. Your encouragement is always of value, thanks.

I scribbled with a dress making pencil.
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