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1960 austin Healey
I thought I would start a thread on my attempt at making a rear fender (wing,Mudguard) depending on what part of the world your from.
It is for my 1960 Austin Healey BT7. I decided to put it under the automotive projects because it is part of my attempt to restore The Big Healey. But it is really about my attempt to learn metal shaping in my late 60's. So a little background!! I have no back ground in car restoration, or metal shaping or welding. I just decided when I retired I would need something to do with my hands and my mind and I like old British sports cars. I have a 1969 Jaguar OTS and the Austin Healey. Both need restoration. So I started buying the tools I thought I would need before retirement. First a mig welder because I had never welded before and I thought it would be the easiest to learn. Hand tools hammers, dollies, sand bags various other hand tools. I made a stump, a bead roller, and purchased an English wheel. The first panel I chose to try to make is the left rear fender on the Healey. a picture of it here. Over the next few days I will try to tell and show with what pictures I have. Where I started and where i am at today. first I need to see if I have figured out how to post a thread and include pictures.
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Dave Bradbury |
#2
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I see my picture came as an attachment that has to be clicked on to open.
Could someone tell me how to include it in the text. and where one wants it in the text? Thanks in advance
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Dave Bradbury |
#3
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Read this http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=115
and this: http://allmetalshaping.com/showthread.php?t=10602
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Kerry Pinkerton |
#4
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Thanks kerry I will see if I can make it work I think i got it. Thanks again kerry.
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Dave Bradbury |
#5
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This video will help a lot, especially on the "hip" feature at your #2.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xeXtezrmK3M
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Bill Longyard Winston-Salem, NC |
#6
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Thanks Bill
I have watched that video and Wray's other videos on the E-type fender build a number of times I also have your book on the English wheel good info
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Dave Bradbury |
#7
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with my first stab at making this panel I tried to combine areas 1&2 in the above picture into one piece. Crazy for a first try and of course it didn't work out. I got the general shape but I over worked the panel so much that it was paper thin. I totally failed at the reverse area.
I didn't want the exercise to be a total fail so I took the opportunity to try my hand at wiring the wheel opening area of the edge.. For my first attempt I thought it came out ok
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Dave Bradbury |
#8
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Dave
looking at the pics of the panel you made (N 1 and 2 combined) it;s very clear the the two main edges have not been stretched enough,+ the bulbous shape in front of the return is not high enough as well So let me give a little suggestion on how to do that bulbous shape and return + blend. Cut the blank about 2 inches longer at the return area make the bulbous shape first and leave the return area raw, once that is done using a blocking hammer on a wood stump stretch the two edges ( door gap edge and top edge) DO NOT stretch too much towards the middle of the return meaning.... stretch on a V shape area little and softly in the middle and harder and more of it as you work your way towards the 2 edges mention . By this time the edge where the door gap is would be longer and so the edge where it bolts on the car and more important ..that area is now facing downwards, simply because the bulbous shape is higher than the raw return area except the two stretched edges . Go to your wheel and use a lower anvil that is right for the shape (NOT TOO SHARP) reduce the pressure (to almost not touching) wile working in the middle of the return, then apply the pressure when working out to the edges ( again in a V shape, BUT the wheeling action needs to be by pulling up each stroke and away from the center and towards the edge ) You will find that the original stretched edges are getting tight ,so stretch them again with a reasonable pressure till loose again, repeat this exercise over and over. So if you follow this right... what is happening is that the CENTER of the return is stretched very little BUT the two edges (the front one and the rear) are getting longer. If you think that the blend between the bulbous shape and the return does not look OK.. in another words you have a step like shape ? Then simply reduce the pressure on the wheel so much so that the gap between the two wheels is much more than the thickness of the material and pull up against the top wheel from the bulbous shape right out to the return edges, also try to wheel a bit side ways to stop the top wheel digging in to the reverse Think of this... the edges of the bulbous have been shrunk and the edges of the return have been stretched and the middle of the return as been left almost raw. It;s very hard to be able to explain a certain shape on the NET but I hope that with a bit of practice you get the idea Peter PS another way to do the return (if you can not do it the way I explained?) simply mark out the return area, bend the panel by hand to a U shape put 2 or 3 decent hot shrinks on that area cool them down with water, straighten the panel again to it's original shape and stretch the two edges mention above, then with low pressure smooth it up side ways as mentioned above
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P.Tommasini Metalshaping tools and dvds www.handbuilt.net.au Metalshaping clip on youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WEAh91hodPg Making Monaro Quarter panel: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KIpOhz0uGRM Last edited by Peter Tommasini; 12-27-2018 at 06:54 PM. |
#9
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I love wray but i would never internally shrink... big mess to clean up.
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Steve |
#10
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Thanks Peter
I have tried that part about 6 or 7 times since that first try. But now I do parts 1&2 as separate pieces. I have gotten it a little better (Part 2) each time I have tried it. But it is still not right I will have pictures and text about it up in the next day or two. Part 1 is done and to my liking it was a simple part to do as a separate piece I did it one day after struggling with part 2 for the 5th or 6th time I needed a confidence booster Thanks again for your help
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Dave Bradbury |
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