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  #1091  
Old 11-10-2019, 04:27 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Time to sort out the handbrake. I had drilled out all the spot welds from where the cables came into the cab under the donor's back seat. The threaded boss was where the fuel tank strap bolted in which you can see in the background on a separate bracket now as the fuel tank is only supported by the chassis and not the body.


Mounting the handbrake was easy as just bolted straight back where it was inside on the donor floor pan.


I ran the cable through the rear wall after fitting a grommet. It was easy to know where to mount the plate as it had to go directly over the existing fuel tank strap mount. The bolt even threaded into the original boss as well. Cables just hooked up as before and didn't even have to adjust the handbrake!


I also changed the resonator slip over couplings to V-band ones. I tig welded them on the inside only.


I did this to make it easier to drop the resonators out when changing the battery from below.


Working on connecting the steering shaft to the rack. As I moved the axle forward 175mm, (7"), I need a longer shaft. The hypotenuse length would have changed by 160mm, (5.25"), so that is how much longer the shaft needs to be.


The top shaft is what comes through the firewall and is collapsible by shearing a nylon pin in the event of an accident. The bottom connects to that to go to the rack and has a sliding section to take up any normal flex.


In Australia we are not allowed the cut and weld steering shafts without the added expense of the weld being x-rayed and certified by an engineer. So I went to the wrecking yard to pick up another Jeep shaft from a KJ Cherokee of the same year hoping I could use parts from that. It is the shorter, lower one of the two.


I figured that I could flip the Cherokee one and use the upper section for a new lower one as it was longer than the Grand Cherokee lower one. Was about 50mm, (2"), longer than I needed but have a plan for that.


I drilled out the nylon pin from the upper section, on the right, and pulled apart the sliding section to use the rubber boot from the lower part. What I am doing is turning the upper section into a sliding section and the extra length I don't need simply rides up further inside.


Now, to join my new piece to the Grand Cherokee upper, I had to remove the uni which is staked into place. I thought it would just push past the stakes but it popped the top of the uni cap right off instead! Fortunately this was not the uni I was going to use as I was just trialing my procedure


So I drilled the stakes being careful not to drill into the caps or take too much from the shaft ears.


The last little bit after this I used a small cold chisel to chip away the remainder. You only need to do one side.


Soaked some WD40 on the caps and picked a socket just smaller than the cap for the staked side and another just bigger to press the other side into.


Carefully pressed the uni cross across as far as it will go to the other side. Tapped the ears to help it move any time the pressure increased. Then removed the cap so I could remove the uni itself.


Once out the reverse was done to install the other shaft to it just like changing a driveshaft uni. I restaked it by squaring off a nail punch and then hitting it in different spots than before. I supported the opposite side cap to make sure it didn't try to punch out the other side.


So the old KJ Cherokee upper is the new sliding lower of the WH Grand Cherokee. It was well greased with marine grease and then the boot was fitted to keep out water. It slides as freely at the original lower section without any sidewards play


Slipped on the bearing support in the same place as when on the donor. Will mount it off the inner guard once I make them.


There is plenty of clearance with a minimum of 40mm, (1.5"), all round.


The running angles are actually less than stock as the shaft is now longer than before.
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  #1092  
Old 11-10-2019, 09:48 AM
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Steve Hamilton Steve Hamilton is offline
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Very clever Marcus, where there is a will there is a way!!!

Just like the factory engineered it.

Very impressive, and thanks for taking the time to share the details with the membership.

Steve
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  #1093  
Old 11-10-2019, 10:13 AM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
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Can you mount the support bearing on the frame rail? There will be some slight movement or flexing on the inner guard while driving.
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  #1094  
Old 11-11-2019, 04:27 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Hamilton View Post
Very clever Marcus, where there is a will there is a way!!!

Just like the factory engineered it.

Very impressive, and thanks for taking the time to share the details with the membership.

Steve
Thanks Steve.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
Can you mount the support bearing on the frame rail? There will be some slight movement or flexing on the inner guard while driving.
I was thinking the firewall would be better as less movement and is in harmony with the column. Mounting it to the chassis there is going to be some movement due to the body movement compared to the chassis and this section of shaft is above the sliding joint.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 11-11-2019 at 04:31 AM.
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  #1095  
Old 11-11-2019, 07:03 AM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
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The shaft solution is great- really like that.
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  #1096  
Old 11-12-2019, 04:07 AM
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Gojeep Gojeep is offline
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Originally Posted by cliffrod View Post
The shaft solution is great- really like that.
Thanks mate. Best part is only cost $20 AUD, $13.60 USD, all up as well!
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  #1097  
Old 11-13-2019, 04:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jack 1957 View Post
Can you mount the support bearing on the frame rail? There will be some slight movement or flexing on the inner guard while driving.
I had a look at it today after fitting the steering column in for the first time and the shaft is designed to slide in and out of the support bearing because of the adjustable reach the column has. I didn't even remember that it had that and thought it was only tilt. So I think it is very workable and a stronger solution to make the support off the frame. Thanks for the suggestion Jack.
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  #1098  
Old 11-16-2019, 06:49 AM
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To finish off the steering shaft I needed the column in place. Think this is the first time it has been fitted! To bolt it in I needed to refit the donor dash support frame which meant the A/C had to go in first and the brake pedal box to save pulling things to fit them later on.


Fitted the booster for the first time too and all just bolted in perfectly. The column is not only tilt but reach adjustable, I had to take both that into account before fitting the bearing support. The steering shaft actually pivots slightly through it when you adjust for tilt. I just made a simple bracket off the frame for a stronger support and to make it easier to remove the guard when necessary.


Back to the grille again. I have the turn signals chosen so had to fill in the stock holes as the new ones are a flush mount.


The filler piece I just made round and used some copper under the slots to fill them in.


Just used the mig this time as just do what my mood dictates sometimes.


Notice how much the metal rose due to the weld shrinkage. Like making a pleat or dart in material. I like to grind the bulk of the proud weld off top and bottom first before doing any hammering on it. Less material to move and the slower heat and cooling of the grinding help anneal or soften the metal a bit. Far from a full annealing process, but it can't hurt either. I dont have the weld cracking on me either during planishing.


Just by hitting hammer on dolly in the HAZ, heat affected zone, it is already almost perfectly flat.


Only now do I take the weld down to perfectly flat, because if you do that before hammering, you end up with a circle of thinner metal. Final planishing was done with a flipper and dolly.


I had spotted these turn signals on a great looking Willys Panel Delivery of Sam Hacker. He was kind enough not only tell me where he got them, but to then buy and send them to me as well.


They are a quality item with chrome plated cast steel ring and not just cheap plastic. They have 17 LED's and the circuit board is epoxy coated to keep it waterproof. Made by United Pacific to fit 39 Chevy Sedans. https://truck.uapac.com/product/cont?pid=11383


At just over 75mm-3" in overall diameter, they are between the early and later stock ones in size.


I like how they mimic the headlight bezels for shape too.


I am thinking of getting another set for the rear in both amber and red.
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Last edited by Gojeep; 11-18-2019 at 04:37 AM.
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  #1099  
Old 11-16-2019, 07:56 AM
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MP&C MP&C is offline
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Marcus, nice job on the grill. Those lights match the headlight bezels spot on, really finishes off the front end nicely.
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  #1100  
Old 11-16-2019, 01:43 PM
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Marcus
I agree with Robert, the lights are perfect.

Thanks for sharing all of the changes along the way!

Steve

Also good choice on the steering support.
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