#11
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I've had the same issue, some d/head put a screwdriver under the fingers and forgot it was there.... dooh.
I knocked the high point, mig welded and filed it up, as KAD said, it's no big deal.
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Cheers Martin No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead!!!! |
#12
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Why stainless vs steel filler? Easier to file? Thanks for the response.
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Scott in Montreal |
#13
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Quote:
Will
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Here to learn. William Pointer |
#14
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I'll try the stainless. Thanks
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Scott in Montreal |
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I'd use mild steel, No sense putting hard spots in all over the place when the leaf/apron/fingers are all soft material to begin with.
I have found the marks on the flat areas don't bother much like Joe says, the lows don't transfer, just the highs. I have found however, that misaligned fingers, or low spots on the tips from abuse or damage can transfer marks. That being said, I rarely concern myself with it, as the bends I make are usually not critical in nature. If I am bending something that has to be perfectly unmarred, I use waste material on the side that is to be polished, as long as it works with my bend radius, and doesnt affect my part negatively. Marty
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Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time |
#16
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Marty said:
"If I am bending something that has to be perfectly unmarred, I use waste material on the side that is to be polished, as long as it works with my bend radius, and doesnt affect my part negatively." Applicable to both finger and leaf brakes - - I was taught to create a selection of "shoes" of varying thicknesses so I could more accurately match minimum bend radii for whatever thickness of (usually) aluminum I was working.
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Marc |
#17
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I noticed that the front inch of all the fingers is discolored. Is it common for the fingers to be heat treated on these old brakes?
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Scott in Montreal |
#18
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Quote:
The wet stone rub is a good thing as it does not affect the fly cut surfaces on the beds of machines. It levels without making noticeable marks and leaves the factory marks alone. When I bring back a corroded surface I use a phosphoric wash as my lube, and then change to a rust and corrosion dissolving penetrating oil. On the cast iron it makes a long-lasting nice-looking surface finish. I may finally get my American Chain and Cable nibbler going today - been at it long enough ....
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#19
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That sounds easier than welding. I think I'll give that a try. Thanks Kent.
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Scott in Montreal |
#20
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So I followed Kent's advice and looked for liquid steel...
http://liquid-steel.com/ I don't see this working, at least not for fixing my brake...
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Scott in Montreal |
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