All MetalShaping

Go Back   All MetalShaping > General Metal Shaping Discussion > Basic questions and answers
  Today's Posts Posts for Last 7 Days Posts for Last 14 Days  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #11  
Old 11-30-2015, 11:56 AM
Maxakarudy Maxakarudy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Origin of the wheel, UK
Posts: 630
Default

I've had the same issue, some d/head put a screwdriver under the fingers and forgot it was there.... dooh.
I knocked the high point, mig welded and filed it up, as KAD said, it's no big deal.
__________________
Cheers
Martin

No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead!!!!
Reply With Quote
  #12  
Old 11-30-2015, 07:09 PM
sblack sblack is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Montreal
Posts: 382
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by AllyBill View Post
I've TIG welded that sort of damage with stainless filler and polished it back. That gives excellent results.

Will
Why stainless vs steel filler? Easier to file? Thanks for the response.
__________________
Scott in Montreal
Reply With Quote
  #13  
Old 11-30-2015, 07:44 PM
AllyBill AllyBill is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Feb 2019
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: UK
Posts: 375
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sblack View Post
Why stainless vs steel filler? Easier to file? Thanks for the response.
Mainly because it work-hardens the second you touch it so you get a really durable repair on top of an area you just softened by welding it, and also you can see your repair as you blend it back in. It certainly isn't easier to file, that's for sure! It's just personal preference and steel filler will do a good job too but I've always preferred stainless because it's tough and I can see where I'm working.

Will
__________________
Here to learn.


William Pointer
Reply With Quote
  #14  
Old 11-30-2015, 09:28 PM
sblack sblack is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Montreal
Posts: 382
Default

I'll try the stainless. Thanks
__________________
Scott in Montreal
Reply With Quote
  #15  
Old 11-30-2015, 11:02 PM
Marty Comstock's Avatar
Marty Comstock Marty Comstock is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: East Herkimer NY
Posts: 1,570
Default

I'd use mild steel, No sense putting hard spots in all over the place when the leaf/apron/fingers are all soft material to begin with.

I have found the marks on the flat areas don't bother much like Joe says, the lows don't transfer, just the highs.

I have found however, that misaligned fingers, or low spots on the tips from abuse or damage can transfer marks.

That being said, I rarely concern myself with it, as the bends I make are usually not critical in nature.

If I am bending something that has to be perfectly unmarred, I use waste material on the side that is to be polished, as long as it works with my bend radius, and doesnt affect my part negatively.

Marty
__________________
Results = (Effort X Determination2) + Time
Reply With Quote
  #16  
Old 12-01-2015, 09:33 AM
Marc Bourget Marc Bourget is offline
Member
 
Join Date: May 2013
Location: North Ca
Posts: 716
Default

Marty said:

"If I am bending something that has to be perfectly unmarred, I use waste material on the side that is to be polished, as long as it works with my bend radius, and doesnt affect my part negatively."

Applicable to both finger and leaf brakes - -

I was taught to create a selection of "shoes" of varying thicknesses so I could more accurately match minimum bend radii for whatever thickness of (usually) aluminum I was working.
__________________
Marc
Reply With Quote
  #17  
Old 12-04-2015, 11:13 PM
sblack sblack is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Montreal
Posts: 382
Default

I noticed that the front inch of all the fingers is discolored. Is it common for the fingers to be heat treated on these old brakes?
__________________
Scott in Montreal
Reply With Quote
  #18  
Old 12-06-2015, 11:08 AM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
MetalShaper of the Month October '14 , April '16, July 2020, Jan 2023
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western Sierra Nevadas, Badger Hill, CA
Posts: 4,388
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by sblack View Post
I noticed that the front inch of all the fingers is discolored. Is it common for the fingers to be heat treated on these old brakes?
Don't know about the Brown and Boggs, but my Chicago DandK has no hardenening on the fingers. It had been abused when I got it years ago, so I peened the metal back into place on all the edges, ran a nice 6inch wet stone over all working flats, solvent washed and ss brushed the flats, and then filled all the divots with Devcon liquid steel and flat-filed to smooth. Used to do stainless welds on the divots but it leaves bright marks and I'd rather have gray. Personal taste, I guess. Had a lot of guys use that machine - nobody has ever asked about the minor discolorations, so I figure it doesn't show enough to matter. Sure holds up well.

The wet stone rub is a good thing as it does not affect the fly cut surfaces on the beds of machines. It levels without making noticeable marks and leaves the factory marks alone. When I bring back a corroded surface I use a phosphoric wash as my lube, and then change to a rust and corrosion dissolving penetrating oil. On the cast iron it makes a long-lasting nice-looking surface finish.

I may finally get my American Chain and Cable nibbler going today - been at it long enough ....
__________________
Kent

http://www.tinmantech.com

"All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919.
Reply With Quote
  #19  
Old 12-06-2015, 12:13 PM
sblack sblack is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Montreal
Posts: 382
Default

That sounds easier than welding. I think I'll give that a try. Thanks Kent.
__________________
Scott in Montreal
Reply With Quote
  #20  
Old 12-07-2015, 07:42 PM
sblack sblack is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: Montreal
Posts: 382
Default

So I followed Kent's advice and looked for liquid steel...

http://liquid-steel.com/

I don't see this working, at least not for fixing my brake...
__________________
Scott in Montreal
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:01 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.