All MetalShaping

Go Back   All MetalShaping > Metal Shaping Projects > Automotive Projects
  Today's Posts Posts for Last 7 Days Posts for Last 14 Days  

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Display Modes
  #171  
Old 12-05-2018, 05:35 PM
Kerry Pinkerton's Avatar
Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
Administrator
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Near Huntsville, Alabama. Just south of the Tennessee line off I65
Posts: 7,519
Default

Joel, one thing that got me is the door hinge location.

I'm using some street rod hidden hinges and set them up to work and they did indeed work well. However, what bit me is the curve in the side of the body. Just like decklids, things that open OUTWARD need to have a concave flange or they will run into the outward curve in the body.

Before I had a skin on the body, the doors and A pilliar worked great. The hinges swung open to the max of the hinge which was about 90 degrees. However, once I put skins on, the door touches the side of the front fender when it is open about 60-70 degrees. Obviously this will chip the paint and dent the body because at some point I, or someone else, will allow the door to open too far.

I have two choices.

1- Come up with a stop that will keep the door from opening past a 'safe point. That would not be difficult and because the door is pretty long, a 90 degree opening is not remotely needed to get into the seat. New knees might be handy but the door opening is fine, even at 45 degrees.

2- Reshape the front edge of the door. Currently the front edge is vertical. like the following photo:

Name:  20181116_151238.jpg
Views: 279
Size:  52.7 KB

Since I'm redoing the door back it...

Name:  20181127_125036.jpg
Views: 277
Size:  47.2 KB
I have plenty of room and flange to lift the lip, cut the sheet metal flange and redo the flange so that it has a concave shape about 1/2". This would also eliminate the boring vertical line.

I pulled the door yesterday and will have more shop time tomorrow. I'll think about this while doing the back and make a decision. Stops would be the easiest but redoing would look better.....

You're probably smarter than me and have already figured this out but it bit me.
__________________
Kerry Pinkerton
Reply With Quote
  #172  
Old 12-06-2018, 11:14 AM
heinke's Avatar
heinke heinke is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Jan 2018
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 227
Thumbs up

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kerry Pinkerton View Post
Joel, one thing that got me is the door hinge location.

I'm using some street rod hidden hinges and set them up to work and they did indeed work well. However, what bit me is the curve in the side of the body. Just like decklids, things that open OUTWARD need to have a concave flange or they will run into the outward curve in the body.

...

You're probably smarter than me and have already figured this out but it bit me.
Kerry,
Firstly, I like your new shape for rear door top corner much better. I think you're making a good choice on changing it.

Secondly, yes doors are a bitch. I spent hours and hours on my GTO doors getting them to open and close without contacting the door opening. The hinges I used had stops built in but I had to modify them anyway to stop the door from opening too far.

Thirdly, for the Miura I'm hoping to leverage GMs vast experience with door hinges and doors to cut the time and frustration. I'm going to use the C4 Corvette door hinges which have built-in stops and springs to hold the door open. The front edge on these doors opens INWARD, so hopefully I'll have less challenge with the door edge hitting the opening, cross my fingers anyway.
__________________
Joel Heinke
Be original; don't be scared of being bold!
Reply With Quote
  #173  
Old 12-15-2018, 01:31 PM
heinke's Avatar
heinke heinke is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Jan 2018
 
Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Livermore, CA
Posts: 227
Post Let the station buck modeling begin!

The primary purpose of creating a 3D model for this Miura project is to create a station buck for the body. I decided to go for a stand-alone, egg crate style of buck that will be composed of multiple modules. I have limited workspace in my garage. I hope to use it judiciously by only having the buck modules assembled where Iím focusing my work at any one time and thus optimizing the available work space. The various modules are shown in different colors on this rendering.



The CAD work for designing the buck is being done by Dan Palatnik, the same person who did the CAD work on the 3D body modeling. Iím having Dan do the buck modeling as he has a lot of experience doing this and I have none. This is my first go at building a station buck. Dan started the buck modeling by first identifying where to position transverse stations.



Then he modeled the stations in detail starting at the front of the car and working rearwards.





After modeling all the stations in the front clip module, he modeled the rocker panel modules.



Thatís it for now as the holiday season is here and Dan is getting a much deserved break to celebrate. Work on the modeling the station buck will resume in the New Year.
__________________
Joel Heinke
Be original; don't be scared of being bold!
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:06 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.6
Copyright ©2000 - 2018, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.