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  #11  
Old 11-27-2018, 07:43 AM
seventheaven seventheaven is offline
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Default Dimple Dies

I've made my own dimple die.
I drew up a few in CAD and spent most of an afternoon making one.
I thought I was saving money - right up to the point I had it heat treated.
DOH!
If anyone else wants a go the dwg files are here:
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog...-cad-drawings/

Personally, having made one - I'm buying my next ones





What I'd like to know...
Is there any rule for selecting the hole size in relation to the panel?
How close can I go to the edge of a panel? etc.
Yeh, I know I could use FEA but then I'd need the whole body in CAD.

There seems to be 2 types of dimple die. Ones that leave a flat portion in the centre and ones that don't. The ones with a flat washer like bit in the middle (still has a hole).

I have a dimple die from a swap meet a few years back (It's stamped 32mm - similar to above CAD) and it leaves a swage ring with a 39mm internal diameter. To get a dimple die hole to look like my previous post, I used a 38mm /1.5" hole cutter.
The problem was getting the dimple die central on the oversized hole.

Is my 32mm die really a 39mm die?

Am I doing it wrong?

Should I use a 32mm hole cutter and leave that extra ring?
Should I leave that 'ugly' ring or can I remove it? I'd have to cut n file it out and that could leave a messy finish (and potential weak points).

If I use the bigger cutter, what's the rule on picking it's size? e.g. for a dimple with a 50mm internal diameter, what sized cutter should I pick?

How do other people centralise them? As the press applies pressure, on a test piece, I could see the sheet metal slip around as the flare was created.

Should I look for different flare tools?

Any help appreciated
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2018, 01:32 PM
seventheaven seventheaven is offline
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Default dimple die flat

This is what I mean by the having a small flat at the bottom. I measured the final hole and it's 33.6mm. It started at 32mm aswas very snug on the dimple die.



The 'coining' mark is 38mm the same as the male die. You can also see that this test piece wandered as the die was compressed. I think I need to work out a way of clamping the punch and the workpiece.

Should I just use a 38mm hole cutter?
Should I stop worrying?
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2018, 01:46 PM
hillman hillman is offline
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Default

Hi Mark
I had a look at your site (excellant), when I click on the dwg files for the dies they just come up as a txt file, is this something you wanted? if so it's Ok I just wanted to try and convert into Rhino 6
Thank Phil
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  #14  
Old 11-27-2018, 03:32 PM
seventheaven seventheaven is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hillman View Post
...when I click on the dwg files for the dies they just come up as a txt file, is this something you wanted? if so it's Ok I just wanted to try and convert into Rhino 6
Thank Phil
Hi, Not quite sure how your trying to open them. Try right clicking and 'save link as'
You should have a .dwg file. I've never used Rhino, but I'm guessing it should be able to import dwg's.
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  #15  
Old 11-27-2018, 08:05 PM
hillman hillman is offline
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Thanks Mark
Just having a brain fade and looks like it imports into Rhino 6
just fine
Thanks again Cheers Phil
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  #16  
Old 12-17-2018, 03:56 PM
seventheaven seventheaven is offline
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Default English Wheel

Some of my next jobs are the doors and bonnet sides.
They have double curves for which an English Wheel would be handy.

I had a heap of scrap fence posts, so I made my own.



It still needs a few tweaks but it is already useable.

It's massive. It's twice my bodyweight, over 2 feet taller than me and has a 38" throat.

read more:
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog/diy-english-wheel/

The good thing is, it owes me way under 100. Not bad considering the rubbish you can buy for 200.

It took a few weeks to build..... I just wish learning how to use it will be as quick.
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  #17  
Old 12-17-2018, 04:19 PM
Charlie Myres Charlie Myres is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seventheaven View Post
I've made my own dimple die.

...The problem was getting the dimple die central on the oversized hole.
...
How do other people centralise them? ...
Any help appreciated
The dimple dies I have made are centralised with a 1/8" roll-pin. This suits my projects, because the dimples require a fastener in them when finished and I use the hole that the roll-pin was in.

If you don't want a hole, weld it closed after pressing the dimple,

Cheers Charlie
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  #18  
Old 12-23-2018, 04:11 PM
seventheaven seventheaven is offline
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Default Second Door Pillar

I've got the second door pillar done. That means I have the datum points for the whole car.

I tried different techniques to to this one, using the bead roller and tipping dies instead of hammering over formers. It produced better results but time wise there was no time saved.





It's not perfect as there is the odd ripple. This car will need some 'Mud' here and there but hopefully nothing thicker than a light skim.

A lot of this is Gas welded and I still seem to be warping the metal more than I'd like, so my new English wheel is already earning it's keep flattening things back out. It also seems I spends ages on the shrinker / stretcher undoing work I'd just done.

Read more:
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog...e-door-pillar/
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  #19  
Old 12-28-2018, 05:14 PM
seventheaven seventheaven is offline
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Default Hand Made Bulkhead

With the door pillars done I wanted something level I could use as an easy datum.

I made a bracing panel to join the two pillars.


I then made the front section. I didn't want something totally smooth so I made it in the bead roller. I had to make it in two pieces so it would fit my bead roller - butt weld it back together.



Once I rolled the beads it was curved like a banana. so I had to stretch the raised panels to flatten it. In this shot it was lying flat, but I hadn't put it through the roller yet or trimmed straightened the edges.

I cleco'd it in place in case I needed to adjust it later.


The tricky section will be between the screen and bulkhead as the MG Midget screen has a double curvature.



I've just propped it in place whilst I plan the next stage. It will sit 3" higher than where I've mocked it up.


read more here:

http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog...made-bulkhead/
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  #20  
Old 01-02-2019, 02:14 PM
seventheaven seventheaven is offline
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Default Scuttle

I've started the scuttle. There is still quite a bit of straightening and shrinking left to be done, but the basic shape is there.


I'm going to have to try heat shrinking, which I've never done. It doesn't need much as before I welded it up it was pretty close.



Chance are my shrinking efforts might end in me starting again.

I've set the BMW hinges into the bulkhead. I'm hoping I can get the bonnet to hope without fouling. I'm also hoping the release works too, else this bulkhead is another 'prototype'.



It's the top triple curve panel that's going to be the challenge

read more here:
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/blog...steel-scuttle/

My workshop is very damp / flooded, so this shiny metal will be red in a couple days. I'm having trouble getting Gibbs penetration Oil.

Does anyone know of a paintable rust proofer - an oil / wax etc?
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