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  #11  
Old 06-13-2018, 06:27 AM
vroom vroom is offline
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Some good info on what not to use Kelly. For coating and bonding I always use West System epoxy and their fillers. It is slower but predictable.
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  #12  
Old 06-13-2018, 08:30 AM
metal manny metal manny is offline
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The suggestions forwarded by Mark G and Kelly are spot on.



Polyester resins and lacquer (volatile) solvents etc. make short work of styrenes.



I also work with this stuff in the film industry and we overcoat the rough forms with epoxy resin (and glass mat if strength is required). You can then apply Bondo to your heart's content to fill as needed.



The expanding polyurethane wood glue (Gorilla and others) is excellent and renders a decent, strong bond by creeping into the voids between surfaces. There is also a specific polystyrene cement which is like contact glue and might be cheaper than other adhesive suggestions; ideal for assembling flat sheets.


Lastly for a perfect finish on your form you can spray a high build 2-K epoxy filler-primer over the form, and easily sand it down to a superb finish. We call it "MS Primer" in these parts...
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  #13  
Old 06-13-2018, 02:05 PM
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racer-john racer-john is offline
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Default Questions on building a styrofoam buck.

Has anyone tried "CASCO contact 3880", water based CC. Says it wont eat foam?
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  #14  
Old 08-21-2019, 05:31 PM
Moulder Moulder is offline
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I ended up using the super 77 adhesive. It did attack the foam a little bit but not as bad as I thought it would. I did a couple of samples with titebond wood glue and an adhesive tube I put in my caulk gun (can't remember the brand at the moment). They both took a long time to set up but had a good bond. I think both of them would require clamping or putting weights on them where the 3m spray wouldn't.

I do not like using the joint compound on the surface of the foam. It was easy to work with but it's just too fragile. Maybe I was adding too much at one time? I get very little time to work on my projects so I have to make it count. I will be knocking off what I can of it first. Then I'll paint it with latex paint and use glass reinforced bondo.

I did this on a simple headlight bucket buck first. I have the MDF cut out for the grill shell buck but haven't added any foam yet. I'm going to wait until the grill buck is done and add bondo to both of them at the same time.

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Last edited by galooph; 08-22-2019 at 03:25 AM.
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  #15  
Old 08-21-2019, 07:11 PM
BSG BSG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moulder View Post
Just an fyi on cutting the foam. Bosch makes jigsaw blades that are amazing for this. They have both long and short blade lengths. If I can remember I will find them and post the part numbers. They make no dust or mess.
I think these are the blades you are referring too?

https://www.boschtools.com/us/en/bos...113a3-29701-p/
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  #16  
Old 08-22-2019, 06:24 PM
Moulder Moulder is offline
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Yes they are! They have a longer too if you're working with a thicker sheet of foam. I think they are around three inches in length and have a wavey cutting edge. I haven't used them yet so I can't offer up anything about how they work. The ones you posted work very well.
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  #17  
Old 08-22-2019, 07:02 PM
BSG BSG is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Moulder View Post
Yes they are! They have a longer too if you're working with a thicker sheet of foam. I think they are around three inches in length and have a wavey cutting edge. I haven't used them yet so I can't offer up anything about how they work. The ones you posted work very well.
James, the knife edge blades are 3" working length, the wavy blades for the same applications are 5" working length!
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  #18  
Old 09-08-2019, 02:19 AM
Adam H Adam H is offline
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For foam,especially styrofoam ,you need 3M spray 78; not spray 77. It does not dissolve the foam . I believe 78 comes in a yellow can. Another thing you can do is use Roscoe FoamCoat in a thin layer (or thick if you like) over the foam. It is water based and can be thinned to a consistency of your choosing. I believe it can also be sanded. It can be top coated with other products as well, but the main thing is that it will not dissolve the foam . It is used extensively to make rock walls and things for displays,theme parks,etc. It runs about 65 bucks (US) a gallon, though. There is a new version made by another company that is dry powder and you mix yourself thats only $10 dollars, but I haven’t used it yet ( I will be soon though).
Hope this helps.
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