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  #1  
Old 09-11-2010, 09:37 PM
dave powell dave powell is offline
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Default mungas power hammer plans

Does anyone know where i could see or get a copy of the plans for his power hammer. or has anyone biult his model and how does it do.
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:05 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Mungas hammer ??? I have never heard of it. Is it a sheet metal shaping hammer or a blacksmith’s powered hammer ? How about posting some photos. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:31 AM
bobadame bobadame is offline
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Try this.
http://www.bbssystem.com/viewtopic.p...19f392b2fa6326
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:33 AM
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Kerry Pinkerton Kerry Pinkerton is offline
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Here is a link to Munga's youtube video of his power hammer.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6T4Kbr1Xyaw

I found the plans and photos but need to get Munga's permission before I post them. I've sent him a message and will let you know.
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Old 09-12-2010, 09:41 AM
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HEATNBEAT HEATNBEAT is offline
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I remember when he posted that hammer. His hammer was made from off the shelf parts with little or no machining.
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Old 09-12-2010, 11:29 AM
dengelbengel dengelbengel is offline
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Can someone here say anything about this hammer, he also has a video about on youtube? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Ka97e7mnE0

Looks a bit like a pneumatic Planishing hammer, but with at least 2" stroke??

I like both hammers.

Jens
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Old 09-12-2010, 11:58 AM
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HEATNBEAT HEATNBEAT is offline
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I just watched the video. It seems to ME he has the wrong dies in the machine . That was a lot of hitting for such with little results. If he was trying to planish the shrinks out I personally was not impressed. The part was not smooth and had alot of waves in it.
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Old 09-12-2010, 02:24 PM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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The dies seem small and may be similar in size to CP planishing hammer dies. The way the springs are set up I’m not sure the power of the hit increases as the speed of the hammer picks up like on a Pettingell or Yoder. Actually the way he is hammering I’m not sure he has much control over the strikes per minute or it could be his style to hammer at full speed all the time. He was having a hard time getting his shrinking tucks to lay flat, it seems like he doesn’t know or can’t run the hammer slower to hit just hard enough to lay those tucks flat --- that is critical especially right at the edge. For me the jury is out on this one, I would really have to run it to give an honest & fair opinion. ~ John Buchtenkirch
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Old 09-13-2010, 12:00 AM
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John, Mungaman's machine isn't really a power hammer, it is a reciprocating machine along the lines of a Pullmax. I have said from day one that I thought the springs would be more a hindrance than a help, but that is only my opinion offered from experience and from watching the videos - I have never run a machine of that type before, so it is also a matter of speculation on my part.

Tim D.
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Old 09-13-2010, 11:34 AM
John Buchtenkirch John Buchtenkirch is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tdoty View Post
John, Mungaman's machine isn't really a power hammer, it is a reciprocating machine along the lines of a Pullmax. I have said from day one that I thought the springs would be more a hindrance than a help, but that is only my opinion offered from experience and from watching the videos - I have never run a machine of that type before, so it is also a matter of speculation on my part.

Tim D.
IMHO many people try to build a power hammer without ever using one prior to the build so they don’t fully understand what it’s supposed to do besides pound metal to death . To have control over your shaping you should be able to control how hard & how fast the hammer hits by using the foot pedal and that range of hardness should start with very light hits right on up to hard hits. Unlike a blacksmith hammer a power hammer (for sheet metal shaping) should have a adjustable throw crank pin so you can move that range higher for stainless and lower for aluminum.

A power hammer should have a brake so when you lift off the foot peddle it stops instantly or almost so. Power hammer guys test their brake by trying to “one shot” them, in another words tap the pedal and instantly release it to get only one hit. I wish I could say mine were 100% but sometimes they double hit. They should be able to run as fast as 800 to even 1200 SPM or BPM so you can get an overlap of hit points while moving the panel thru the dies. They should be able to hit fairly hard with only a short stroke so you can work on smaller parts with your fingers close to the dies with some degree of safety. And finally they should be stout or robust enough that they can maintain a fairly consistent hit point thru their range of use --- that might include bolting them to the floor if they don’t weight enough to be stable. That’s all I can think of at the moment, there may be more but the above would be a very good start in the right direction . ~ John Buchtenkirch
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