#1
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Door skin fabrication tips and tricks??
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I did see this video on making a door skin, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5oFsHldmjDU Most of it made a lot of sense to me but the annealing part left me baffled. I'd think you'd want the door skin to retain as much of the work hardening as possible for dent resistance. Is the annealing required for the edge folding/hemming to minimize cracks? I don't recall that he gave the alloy grade used in the video. I've hemmed 3003 without any crack issues, is this something needed for 5052 hemming?
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
#2
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the section being annealed is the top of the skin, complicated area... start video at 6.00 and you can see the finished flange for the window edge, annealing allows him to shape that section without pulling the shape out of the reverse curve below, this guys done a few of them id say lol. Normally you shouldnt need to anneal a simple closed flange, more critical is the size of the flange being made smaller in a rounded corner
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Steve |
#3
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You'll want to be careful bending a tight 180 degree bend parallel to the grain. This is where it's prone to crack. Don't know that it will but if it does, that's the most likely place for it to happen. Probably worth doing a test bend or 2 on a small piece.
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Bob Don't believe everything you think. |
#4
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When hemming door/hood/lid skins of 3003, 5052 and 6061 it is "advisable" to anneal exactly the bend zone /area - hot sharp flame moving at the "right" speed and the wet quench following on.
Not the flange. Not the skin. Just the bend area/line.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#5
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For the sake of accuracy, (following is from my recall of the discussion in "Forming Alcoa Aluminum) "annealing" with a torch isn't, technically, "annealing". It's "taking the material to 'W' temper" or, in other words, relieving it from work hardening.
As I understand it, if the material work hardens, like 6061, it will go back to the T4 state after "W" temper as a result of further working the metal and aging. No, I'm not saying you have to stop using the term "anneal" just think it's better for the uninitiated to know there's a difference.
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Marc |
#6
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Thanks Kent, I'd wondered if annealing just the edge would work. Your explanation is understandable for me.
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Mike |
#7
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I thought it strange to anneal after shaping the door skin, when I've annealed a new flat panel it warps quite a lot and you do need a door skin to work hard to keep it's shape, but then I use 1050/3003 60 tho.
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Cheers Martin No matter how clever you think you are, stupidity is always one step ahead!!!! |
#8
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Or on corners, where the flange has to reduce a bunch to make the curve ... shrinking when soft is a bit easier than when hard ...? Or when the crown is high on the skin and the edge has to shrink over a distance - and keeping the shape of the skin whilst turning the edge is important enough that I soften the edge while turning it and also reducing its length (shrinking).
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#9
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Quote:
Or on rounded corners, where the flange has to reduce a bunch to make the curve ... shrinking when soft is a bit easier than when hard ...? Or when the crown is high on the skin and the edge has to shrink over a distance - and keeping the shape of the skin whilst turning the edge is important enough that I soften the edge while turning it and also reducing its length (shrinking). But yes, when the skin is "flat" and the edge is straight, then the strike and turn method is reasonable.
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Kent http://www.tinmantech.com "All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919. |
#10
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More door skin questions
Thanks for the information provided so far.
Ok, I'm in the middle of my first door skin and now have more specific questions. I've cut and shaped the skin so it fits well to the inner door frame so I'm beyond that stage. I was just about to anneal the bend zone as advised and then decided to do a test piece to get some experience before doing the actual piece. I'm most concerned about the curved edges where the skin will need to shrink as it's hemmed over so I made sure my test piece had one of those. After wrestling around and butchering the first test piece, it became clear I wasn't anywhere near ready for the real thing. I did a 2nd test piece, it came out better but still pretty much a hack. So I now have a bunch of questions. Annealing
Hemming
I’m asking all these questions because the inner frame is Al 3003. I’m concerned that it will get pulled and deformed during the hemming of Al 5052 skin.
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Joel Heinke Be original; don't be afraid of being bold! |
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