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Old 09-29-2018, 05:15 PM
crystallographic crystallographic is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Western Sierra Nevadas, Badger Hill, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rustreapers View Post
I can't answering for David! But this metal is quick to respond to hammering, rolling n beading. Not to mention stump shrinking. Here is a practice wheel arch I did ......

...............

I am still looking for advice as to what panels the draw quality is best suited for.

Attachment 48895

When I choose material temper I look for how fast it work hardens.
And can I readily shop-anneal critical areas, quickly.
By these simple criteria I can avoid trying to harden up selected full-soft (T-0) panel areas, and instead focus only to soften my work-hardened areas.

This example of yours is an annealed mild steel material, so I would use it in heavily-worked areas, where its strength would arrive to useful levels over 80-90% of the part area, whether by pressing, flow-forming or other hammering methods, or by wheeling, beadrolling, roll-forming .... or by cold-drawing.
The part below is 20ga (.041) mild steel CRS but a bit softer than the cheaper more widely-available flavor of harder temper. (I have zero specifics on material for you, as this sheetl is from the last remnants of a pile I bought from another metalman.)

901 _ 911 exh 1.jpg
This spiral shape is made using our Roughing Head hammer die over a domed steel lower die, using a #3 motor.
https://www.tinmantech.com/products/...ors.php#medium
Draw quality temper is another grade or two softer, and is unnecessary for the way my shop makes this part.


These parts are right off the Air PowHammer, with no other planishing done.
- (exhaust chamber section, Porsche 901)


-Hope this helps illustrate ...
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"All it takes is a little practical experience to blow the he!! out of a perfectly good theory." --- Lloyd Rosenquist, charter member AWS, 1919.

Last edited by crystallographic; 09-29-2018 at 05:18 PM.
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