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Old 10-15-2018, 02:46 PM
longyard longyard is offline
MetalShaper of the Month September 2013
 
Join Date: May 2012
Location: Winston-Salem, NC
Posts: 1,083
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Steve,
I've posted this before, but here it is again:


Here's a run down of what you need to do. I've attached photos as well.

1) The HF, Eastwood, Woodward Fab, etc. machines are all the same. The first mod necessary is to stiffen the "arms" using "C" channel, NOT "V" channel, or angle iron. "C" channel allows you to add a simple sliding depth stop so you can set the depth of beads in a panel.

2) Once you weld on the "C" channel you MUST join the ends of the pieces to create a small "box" (This is at the very back of the throat, see photos). By joining the top and bottom channel with a connecting piece and forming a small "box", you now have prevented the arms from "torqueing" when under load. In engineering terms you have created a "torque box". Remarkably simple, but if you don't do this, the arms will still splay apart.

3) Add lifting springs and an adjusting bolt with a long arm as per the photos. Easy, but a real time saver in the real world. I never tighten down the 17mm bolt anymore, so the upper rod can be raised and lowered by the adjusting bolt alone (See photos). Happiness is working quickly and without the need to find extra tools. NOTE: Use HIGH PRESSURE grease on this adjusting bolt.

4) The motor: What you DON'T want to have are exposed gears, chains, pulleys, etc., like you see on some homemade designs. They are DANGEROUS. I took out one of my roller bars, chucked it in a lathe and put a 1/2" hole about 1" deep into it. The motor shaft now slips into that hole and is held in place by a bolt that comes in at 90 degrees. See photo. If you don't have a lathe, it is worth taking it to a shop that can drill this hole for you. Takes only a couple of minutes and is an easy set up. DON'T DO IT ANY OTHER WAY.

5) The motor is wired to a switch which can reverse polarity, thus direction, very easily. The motor speed controller is a simple old-fashioned sewing machine pedal that I got for a few dollars from a thrift store.

6) The motor is a Dayton 1LRA7. DON'T GET ANY OTHER KIND. Typically on eBay or from Irvan-Smith:
https://www.irvansmith.com/scart/irv...tor-p-381.html



I have looked an dozens of bead rollers available from around the world and I don't think there is any "middle choice" between modifying one of these cheapie Chinese machines and buying either the best Baileigh/RMD, or Lazze Jansson machine. When I modded my machine I got the motor from Irvan-Smith for $150. The price is almost double now, but still well-worth it. If you don't modify your machine, the next best move is to spend $6K to $9K on a Baileigh or Lazze. Anything else just doesn't work that well.



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Bill Longyard
Winston-Salem, NC
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