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Old 01-03-2015, 07:28 PM
cliffrod cliffrod is offline
MetalShaper of the Month January 2020, March 2022
 
Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Spartanburg, SC
Posts: 2,845
Default Different process than soda blasting

Along with my beadblast cabinet and 100 lb pressure pot for bigger stuff, I've done a lot of smaller soda blasting and like it but it will not touch rust or filler. Everything soda blasted needs to be properly cleaned after to avoid corrosion between iron/steel and alloy parts and to resolve pH issues that can ruin paint.

It has its place, is very gentle and very cheap if you buy 100lb bags of soda or easy to pick up a little at any dollar store or walmart when that's all you need or real suppliers are closed. It doesn't texture the surface like typical glass beading and literally nothing but water soluble dust remains to clean up, aside from removed paint dust. The pH of this dust will top kill any grass, leaves, etc but doesn't seem to hurt the actual plant. They all turn black but grow back quick.

If you don't use a proper mask, the soda dust will make the snot run out of your nose like water. If you're sweating, the dust is REALLY irritating, like a minor sunburn wherever the dust gets to settle and stay on your moist skin.

Partly because of these reasons, I was looking at wet media blasting lately as well. The advertising I saw claimed the rust inhibitor was good for 72 hrs before stripped surfaces needed priming.
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