Got a little more time in the shop and was able to get the decklid skin on the frame.
I'm still learning about hemming edges. But I went forward anyway.
I learn more when I screw things up.
Anyway, I marked where the skin needed to sit and clamped it to the frame. Then I bent it over in a few places and just kept after it until it was done. To close it tight, I held it upside down on a flat faced post dolly and hammered it closed.
The upper gap is on the close and the bottom gap is a bit loose so I'll need to tweak the hinge locations a bit to center it better. However, it is tight on the corners and I did not leave enough space on the frame to work it down. What I'm going to do is file it until the gap matches what I need and, if I've cut through the skin, run a TIG bead around it and refile.
I have tremendous admiration for folks who can nail gaps. Obviously, it's an area where I still have a lot to learn.
But the best part is the decklid opens and closes without hitting the body! Some of you who have hung on through this 12 year saga may remember that my previous decklid would not open because I had the curve going the wrong direction and it hit the body in the center of the opening. Yet another example of what happens when you don't know what you are doing...
On another note, I think I've found a source for the stainless trim that will run down the center of the car. This guy has apparently been around quite a while but moved his business to a new location ans was out of pocket for a while. The trim I'm looking at is 3/16 tall and 1" wide. It costs $7 a foot and each end is $3. I'm going to order a couple pieces and verify I can bend it. I expect if I make a Pullmax die that stretches to top, I will be able to curve down to fit the surface.