Thread: Leading
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Old 05-20-2019, 11:59 AM
Metal1 Metal1 is offline
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Join Date: Apr 2014
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Quote:
Originally Posted by crystallographic View Post
I've done a fair amount of autobody "lead work" but only with the old 30-70 or 40-60. Even now I have a Brents gun and 50lbs of 30-70 3/8" tri-bar.
I've never used the "lead-free."
I always do a hot wipe with a clean rag after tinning, and I've used a variety of tinning salts, fluxes, and compounds. A neutralizing washover after the hot wipe is mandatory.

After paddling out the lead and filing I do not sand.
After filing I use a metal prep as a final wash and I watch for any weeping from pinholes.
I made a film about this a long time ago, but Eastwood took over the market and so they are about the only ones supplying and informing, that I am aware of.
Ron Naida made a few very good posts about tinning steel here on this forum.
I was very aware of the So Cal metal guys having doubts about lead work at the end of the 1980's, about the time CadZilla was being finished up. (same doubts at that time also for gas welding aluminum) ...
Simply stated, those current craftsmen had gotten away from the guidance of the senior skilled craftsmen, and the good old solid techniques were being diffused, confused, or forgotten entirely. To wit: It took a few long years, but CadZilla eventually burped out the acid residues, though that gorgeous paint. Funny thing, millions of Detroit autos came out with lead-filled seams from 1930 to 1980-something - with zero issues from residues through the paint.


It's a lot like paint - get the routine down, and get the chemistry down - or face the consequences.
Plastic filler is easy by comparison, but has shrinkage and strength issues.


Some small areas can be done with a soldering iron - clean, tin, wipe, neutralize, solder, and file off and metal prep.
(end)
Thanks for this bit of info. Kent it’s very helpful. I have purchased your body solder video and it’s a very resourceful tool I would highly recommend it to anyone interested in this thread.
You say you neutralize after the hot wipe but before applying the solder? With what?
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