Thread: C5 gto
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Old 01-12-2011, 02:33 AM
Overkill Overkill is offline
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Join Date: May 2009
Location: Cloverdale, CA
Posts: 1,233
Default Insulation

Joel,

I've used the exhaust tubing wraps available from Summit and many others. It keeps the heat in the headers - to a degree.

No idea what this next stuff is called, but I see it at the Pleasanton Swap meets frequently and have used it a couple times. It's a white foam product, about 1/4" thick and has a silver backing. Guys demo has a propane torch burning on the stuff all day,and the other side of the metal is only slightly warm. Rolls of various lengths. One I've bought before is $100. Buddy has a new roll in his rafters (I had to replace the one I used) can look at it and see if there is any name on it if you'd like. The seller is a swap meet regular and may be at Turlock swap at the end of the month. Use spray adhesive to apply it. Last place I used it was on my AC plenum on the teardrop - and it worked great there. Used that expensive aluminum tape (available at Home Depot) on the corners. It's the same stuff you should use on that foam board you have.

The foam board you have is flame resistant, but like it says, only up to a certain temp. The aluminum side is meant to be a radiant barrier, reflecting radiant energy back. We used the same 1" product in the teardrop, taped the seams and now have trouble with it getting too hot inside from simply body heat. Have had to keep the windows open, even when it's snowing outside... Installing ventilation system in addition to the AC to compensate. Also, be aware, the radiant barrier must be exposed to air in order to work. People will install it face up on their roof, with felt paper in direct contact with the foil side - per everything I've read, you've just killed the radiant barriers effectiveness.

When the foam board is used in a residential or commercial application the code requires it be covered with a flame proof barrier - drywall - 1/2 inch minimum in living areas, double layer of 5/8 in garage (2 hour barrier).

Under extreme workout on dyno, engine you described will cause the SS headers to glow red.

Lastly, look in Street Rodder and other mags. There are a couple companies that specialize in insulation that may be able to help you out.

As you know, aluminum conducts heat well. Also, on two occasions now, I have seen concrete hardi board, or asbestos board, nailed to the wall behind wood stoves. There was a gap between the board and the wall, as is recommended. However, the nails went through the fire proof board, through the spacers and into the studs. The wood stove heated the nails so much, that they caught the studs on fire. Made for an interesting wake up call in the middle of the night. Thank god for smoke detectors. Just something to think about when wondering where the heat will transfer to.

John

Last edited by Overkill; 01-12-2011 at 02:38 AM.
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