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Old 12-09-2017, 12:11 PM
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Jack 1957 Jack 1957 is offline
MetalShaper of the Month Dec . 2016, Sept 2019 Metal Shaper Of The Year 2021
 
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Strongsville,OH
Posts: 1,131
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I've had a ton of stuff to do around the house before it starts snowing but I also managed to get some work done on the Cad. I just didn't have time to mess with the posts so I'll get you all caught up. I did some more work with body side moldings. I got the left side door and fender trim finished. When I started bending the spear for the rear fender, I developed a leak in my acetylene regulator. I smelled it and tracked it down before I blew myself up but no torches till the rebuild kit comes.

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I had to set the windhield in place again so I could make the hood hinges and cut the back edge of the hood to fit the shape of the glass.

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I made new hinges by grafting parts from the original 49 hinges and parts from a later model set that I had laying around. I don't even know what they were from but they had what I needed. I couldn't use the original 49 hinges because when I pancaked the hood it became too low for the originals. I really wanted to use them but there was no way.

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I trimmed the back edge of the hood and welded in a length of 1/2" round tube along the edge. then I finished working the oil canning problem out of the left center area of the skin. Since my torches are still down I used a Burnzamatic propane torch to heat the high spot.It doesn't take a lot of heat so that was plenty. I'm not sure how to explain the process but it's sort of like a dolly off process but the dolly is actually "on". When I heat the area to be worked, the expansion of the metal will cause the area to rise. With a flat dolly below, I use a slightly crowned body hammer to pound down the heated area with the dolly directly below the hammer but not hammering hard enough to pound the steel all the way down to the dolly. You should not hear that solid "tink" sound when hammering. This process gathers the hot metal. If you hit too hard and start hearing the solid sound of metal crashing against metal, you are stretching. After you've done that, just run a wet rag over the area. Check and repeat as needed.
After mounting the hinges and the hood, I noticed that I didn't quite hit my target at the rear corners of the hood. I added filler panels to the fenders to allow the hood to open without interfering with the fenders but they still do a little.

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To correct this problem I need to cut off the filler panels that I just installed. Cut the back corners of the hood so they are forward of the pivot point of the hinges, then make new larger filler panels. As they are now, when I open the hood, the upper portion of the back corners of the hood dip downward and the lower portion comes upward. If I make these changes, when I open the hood the whole rear area will move upward and clear the filler panels.

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