Joel, one thing that got me is the door hinge location.
I'm using some street rod hidden hinges and set them up to work and they did indeed work well. However, what bit me is the curve in the side of the body. Just like decklids, things that open OUTWARD need to have a concave flange or they will run into the outward curve in the body.
Before I had a skin on the body, the doors and A pilliar worked great. The hinges swung open to the max of the hinge which was about 90 degrees. However, once I put skins on, the door touches the side of the front fender when it is open about 60-70 degrees. Obviously this will chip the paint and dent the body because at some point I, or someone else, will allow the door to open too far.
I have two choices.
1- Come up with a stop that will keep the door from opening past a 'safe point. That would not be difficult and because the door is pretty long, a 90 degree opening is not remotely needed to get into the seat. New knees might be handy but the door opening is fine, even at 45 degrees.
2- Reshape the front edge of the door. Currently the front edge is vertical. like the following photo:
Since I'm redoing the door back it...
I have plenty of room and flange to lift the lip, cut the sheet metal flange and redo the flange so that it has a concave shape about 1/2". This would also eliminate the boring vertical line.
I pulled the door yesterday and will have more shop time tomorrow. I'll think about this while doing the back and make a decision. Stops would be the easiest but redoing would look better.....
You're probably smarter than me and have already figured this out but it bit me.